Otira River Crossing Reconnaisance:Aickens Corner: 30th January 2016

A look at the ford over the Otira River.... 

In 2016 I had a plan for a six day trip in mid February over Harper's Pass from the Otira River to Windy Point near Lewis Pass. I went to the western edge of Arthur's Pass National Park to scout the crossing points on the Otira River. This is on the west coast of the South Island at Aickens Corner, on the western side of the Main Divide. 

(NB: The trip didn't happen due to a massive sodding rain event...)

The Otira River at Aickens Corner, Arthur's Pass National Park

The Taramakau Valley is a part of Arthur's Pass National Park, the boundary is along the crest of the mountains on the true right of the Taramakau River.

Travel up the Taramakau Valley means multiple river crossings....

To get over Harper's Pass you must be able to cross the Otira, Otehake and Taramakau Rivers on the first and second days of the tramp. There are no bridges crossing any of these rivers, so you need to utilise those river crossing skills to get through.

Fording the Otira River at Aickens Corner, Arthur's Pass National Park

  

The Otira is generally the worst of the three, if you can cross this river at Aickens Corner you should be able to cross the other two as well. 

River crossing, a vital tramping skill

Any person contemplating a tramp in New Zealand should have well practised river crossing skills. Drowning is still the biggest killer when it comes to outdoor accidents, and we have so many rivers, streams and lakes in this country you will need to cross one at some time in your tramping career.

The Taramakau River after a couple of days rain...a death trap!!!

Go do a certified course on River Crossing techniques with an accredited provider, tramping club or individual. They will teach you how to 'read' any water body and will show you solo and group techniques for getting across safely.

For more information on river crossing technique you should read the relevant sections of the Mountain Safety Council (MSC) books:  Bushcraft : outdoor skills for the New Zealand bush and River Safety: Be river safe.

Every serious Kiwi tramper should have a copy of both of these books at home.

The Bushcraft bible: Bushcraft in New Zealand

MSC River Safety Manual: must know river crossing techniques

Check out the Mountain Safety Council (MSC) web site for River Crossing tips, they have a variety of excellent videos and on-line resources about the subject. 

The MSC river safety webpages...

The number one rule of river crossings '...if in doubt, then do not attempt to cross...'. If there is an alternate to crossing a river then use it, even if it makes your journey longer. Safety around water should always be your first priority.

Across the Otira River...

The Otira, Otehake and Taramakau Rivers are all killers: numerous people have been swept away trying to cross them in unfavourable conditions. They are always cold and can be deep and swift with even a hint of rain in the surrounding mountains.

This is the West Coast remember: it is always raining in the surrounding mountains!

You get to the Otira River from the sign posted car-park at Aickens Corner, there is a marked track leading from the car-park across the adjacent farmland to the rivers edge.

Track to the Taramakau Valley from near the Aickens car-park

The photo below is of the Otira directly opposite the track from Aickens Corner. The water looks deep but I watched a party of three trampers cross here, the water only reached their knees so this is the first of three potential crossing points.

It is about 20-30 meters wide so it is a long way to back-track if things started to look dicey during your crossing. I would still think about fording here but I would think long and hard before wading in. 

Otira River: First possible ford near Aickens Corner, Arthur's Pass National Park

About 100 meters up the river it is a different story: it looked sphincter puckering! Deep and fast flowing as the river is confined to one very narrow channel. You can see an obvious pressure wave in the river which is a classic danger sign.

DO NOT CROSS HERE!

Otira River view looking up river near Aickens Corner...note pressure wave...

I headed up the river about 400 meters and found a good crossing point where the river breaks into three braids. You can just see the potential crossing point about 50 meters upstream of this spot, the river crosses a shingle fan and becomes shallow.

View upstream: Otira River ford near Aickens Corner, Arthur's Pass National Park

 I walked over the first two braids and it was halfway between ankle and knee depth. Provided it doesn't rain too much I should be able to get over the river easily enough here. 

The multi braided section of the Otira River near Aickens I walked across

Multi braided section of Otira River, Aickens Corner, Arthur's Pass National Park

You would basically cross from channel to channel via the intersecting island's.  Also, there is good run out into relatively shallow water if something goes wrong. Run out is what happens with the water downstream of your crossing.

You want it to be clear, preferably shallow with no boulders, snags or rapids..if you go for a swim you don't wont to be colliding with anything.

Piece of piss then: No... not really but at least you would be safer crossing here.You are never 100% safe crossing any river in New Zealand, you need to respect them.

Multi braided section of Otira River looking towards the Taramakau Valley

Just a note, there used to be a small shelter on the tongue of bush land between the Otira and Taramakau Rivers. It was about 300 metres from the river itself....it got carried off in a flood in 2014!

 Something to think about....

Multi braided section of Otira River at Aickens,  looking downstream...

There was also a potential crossing point about 50 meters downstream of the straight through route, again the river breaks into two wide channels slowing the speed and force of the water.

It is a possibility but I wasn't as fond of the run-out, it looked deep just downstream of the crossing point, if you went swimming you might find it hard to get out again. This would be my least favoured option.

Different day...the Otira River after 1-2 hours light rain in the headwaters...

Please note: If you are unable to cross the Otira River at the ford then you will not be able to cross the Taramakau or Otehake Rivers.
 
Anyway that's what this beast looks like, whether it is the same when you visit remains to be seen. 

P.S: I gave a couple of TA walkers a ride from Arthur's Pass to Lagoon Saddle Track. One of them got swept away by the Otehake a couple of days earlier but managed to make it to shore. He freely admitted he just waded into the river and didn't take the time to study it well.

Always study a river before entering.

Using the Morrison footbridge

Another way to cross the Otira is by using the Morrison Footbridge, at the confluence of the Deception and Otira rivers.

The bridge leads up the Deception River to Goat Pass and the Mingha Valley, this is the classic Coast to Coast route across the Southern Alps. The bridge also leads to a emergency flood track between the Deception and the Taramakau River Valleys.

Crossing the Morrison Footbridge just west of Otira settlement, Deception Valley in background

The Otira Flood Track is a bloody knarly beast, it is only about 3 kms but it is in such a poor state it takes 2-3 hours to cover the distance. The Department of Conservation in Arthur's Pass have ceased maintaining the track as they are gradually walking away from tracks they deem to be little used.

Morrisons Footbridge at the Deception-Otira River confluence, Arthur's Pass National Park

The problem with the Flood Track to the Taramakau is that if the Otira is too high to cross then there is absolutely no way you will be able to cross the Otehake or the Taramakau Rivers.

You only cross the Otehake once but even in the height of summer it is deep. You need to cross the Taramakau 4-5 times to get to the head of the valley.

Thus the Otira acts as a safety brake for those contemplating a crossing of Harpers Pass, you shouldn't be attempting the crossing in adverse weather. 

Map: Morisons Footbridge at the Deception-Otira River confluence, Arthur's Pass National Park

So, best advice...if you want to go up the Taramakau Valley cross the river at Aickens Corner, if that proves impossible go somewhere else!!!

Access: Aickens Corner is approximately 5 km's west of Otira township, there is a parking area on the right hand side of the road.
Track Times: The ford over the Otira River is located 10 minutes along the track to the Taramakau Valley, please follow the marked track as it crosses farmland.
Miscellaneous:The Otira can also be crossed via the Morrison Bridge, this is approximately 1 km west of Otira. Then use the Otira Flood Track to access the Taramakau- note that the flood track is overgrown and in poor condition, it takes 2-3 hours.