Bealey Valley Track, 5th January 2020

In the shadow of Mt Rolleston...

Just after New Years Karen and I ventured up to Arthur's Pass National Park to stay in a holiday home we had rented for a weekend. The weather was good with sun, warm temperatures and no rain. The previous three times we have come up here it has been raining so it was good to have a nice couple of days for a change.

While in the area we did a number of short and medium day walks one of which was a trip up to the end of the Bealey Valley Track in the catchment of the Upper Bealey Valley.

Start of the Bealey Valley Track at SH 73

This is a relatively short track...it is about 1.5 hours return and is a mixture of nice bush walking, open beech forest, boardwalk and some open tarn fringes. It is a very lovely track and is suitable for all ages and in all conditions. Too wet and windy to walk the Avalanche Peak Track....give this beauty a go...!!!

The Bealey River from the bridge over the Chasm

Mountain Neinei trees along the Bealey Valley Track

The view of the northern face of Mt Rolleston is beautiful and well worth the effort of walking up the track. The track ends at the Bealey River and though you can venture further upriver this is where we halted. 

Mt Rolleston from the end of the Bealey Valley Track

This was the last of the walks we undertook on this trip but this is certainly not the last time we will come up to Arthur's Pass as there are many excellent tracks still to walk. 

From Jacks Hut to the Upper Bealey River

The Bealey Valley Track starts about 6 km's west of Arthur's Pass Village at a car-park opposite the iconic Jacks Hut. There is plenty of parking space here and as the road is very busy it is a fairly safe place to leave your car while you are walking.

Historic Jacks Hut on SH73 just west of Arthur's Pass village

This is also the re-entry point for the top section of the Arthur's Pass Walking Track and in fact you are walking on that track for the first 200 meters to the Bealey Chasm junction. The track is Great Walk style...flat, level and very easy to walk on.

Karen and I set off from the Bealey Chasm car-park at SH 73, Arthur's Pass

On the Arthur's Pass Waking Track at the start

After 200 meters there is a track junction...if you follow the left branch you go down a set of stairs to the Bealey Chasm and the Bealey River. If you go to the right you will eventually arrive at the top of the Pass as this is the top half of the Arthur's Pass Walking Track.

Junction of the Bealey Valley Track & Arthur's Pass Walking Track

Karen at the Bealey Valley Track junction

DOC sign at the Bealey Valley Track junction

The track & stairs are certainly better than the muddy rutted track that once went down to the river and are the result of a millennial project to build a new track from Arthur's Pass Village to the high point of the pass at the Dobson Memorial.

Descending down the stairs to the Bealey Chasm

Karen is descending down the stairs to the Bealey Chasm

Bridge over the Bealey Chasm, Arthur's Pass NP

Bridge over the Bealey River near the Bealey Chasm

Part of the construction was upgrading the track down to the Bealey Chasm and building a new bridge over the Bealey River. If you are short of time even walking down to the bridge is worthwhile as the Bealey River is beautiful along here and worth visiting.

Bealey River, view upstream from the Bealey Chasm bridge

Bealey River, view upstream from the Bealey Chasm bridge

Bealey River, view downstream from the Bealey Chasm bridge

On the far side of the bridge you climb up the the site of Margaret's Tarn which is slowly filling in with silt and is now a large clear area of tussock and turpentine scrub. There are good views down the valley towards the village and this is the best spot to get a wide angled view of Rome Ridge, Mt Rolleston and Goldneys Ridge

Climbing up to the Bealey Valley Track past the bridge

Mt Rolleston from the Bealey Valley Track

Goldneys Ridge from the Bealey Valley Track

Heading into the beech forest on the Bealey Valley Track

The track to the Upper Bealey River continues on the western edge of the clearing and heads off through the stunted beech forest on a series of boardwalks, small bridges and bush track.

There is a lot of boardwalk along the Bealey Valley Track

Karen on one of the bridges along the Bealey Valley Track

The Bealey Valley Track from the fixed bridge...

There are a number of Dracophyllum Traversii or Mountain Neinei (also sometimes called the 'Dr Seuss tree') along the side of this track....so named because they look just like the trees you see in Dr Seuss books. These are a really ancient tree species and have been around for several million years now...this partially explains why they look so weird.

Mountain Neinei or Dracophyllum traversii on the Bealey Valley Track

Boardwalk over tree stumps along the Bealey Valley Track

You arrive at the end of the track after about 20-25 minutes of walking and the end of the track makes for a good rest spot either in the bush fringe or siting on one of the large boulders in the river bed. This is as far as the track goes as there are a number of avalanche chutes from this point onward.

If you are coming up here in winter or early spring do not go further up the valley without first checking the avalanche advisory...the possibility of an avalanche is so high during those seasons that this valley has its own advisory page.

End of the Bealey Valley Track at the Upper Bealey River

You have magnificent views of the north face of Mt Rolleston from the river bed at the end of the track and it is well worth taking a rest here and checking out the scenery. If you are lucky you might see someone on one of the ice faces of the mountain.

You can go further up the valley but it is totally at your own risk...there is a overgrown and rough track up the true right side of the river which can take you right up to the head of the cirque under Mt Rolleston.

Mt Rolleston from the bed of the Upper Bealey River

Rome ridge climbing to Mt Rolleston from Bealey river

Jon at the end of the Bealey Valley Track

Karen and I sat on the edge of the river and ate our lunch while enjoying a tasty brew. We were not alone as there were a number of other people taking advantage of the fine weather to explore the valley.

Just opposite the end of the track you can see an obvious avalanche chute on the far side of the river. I have been up here in winter before and as well as being damn cold there was avalanche debris piled up at the base of the chute. Slips off the side of the steep sided Goldneys Ridge are quite common after heavy snow falls or if there is heavy rain in the middle of winter so stay clear at all times

A mixture of rock types at the Upper Bealey River

Active slip chute at the Upper Bealey River

Rugged terrain climbing up to the cirque at the end of the Bealey river

We packed up and headed back down the track after about 20 minutes as it was starting to get a bit cold as the wind had started to blow.

From the Bealey Valley to SH 73...

 Your return to the highway is a reverse of your previous walk...you just jump on the track and head for the road. This really is a nice track well marked, well maintained and very easy to follow. 

End of the Bealey Valley Track in the Bealey River

Karen heading down the Bealey Valley Track

Bealey Valley Track: lots of boardwalk to ease your passage

There are good views of the main part of the Bealey Valley from the edge of the large clearing...you can easily see Mt Bealey and Avalanche Peak and you can even see the course of Scott's Track climbing up to Avalanche Peak from a bit further down the valley.

On the boardwalk on the Bealey Valley Track

View down the Bealey Valley towards Arthur's Pass village

Random beech growing next to Bealey Valley Track

Halfway across the clearing is an unmarked track leading off into the bush around the base of Rome Ridge...this is an old track that used to go up to a view point on the side of Rome Ridge. It over looked the Bealey Glacier which has been melting since the mid 1980's...the only remnant is a small patch of ice high on the north face of Mt Rolleston.

The side track to Rome Ridge, Bealey Valley Track

Mt Rolleston Massif from near Margaret's Tarn, Arthur's Pass NP

...last view of Goldney ridge from the Bealey Valley Track...

We passed half a dozen people on our way back to the car-park...a mixture of tourists and locals out for an afternoon stroll. This is a very popular track probably the second most popular behind the Punchbowl Falls Track but despite this it has a quiet solitude to it more like a remote backcountry trail. 

Back at the Bealey Chasm bridge, Bealey Valley Track

Jon approaches the Bealey Chasm bridge, Bealey Valley Track

The whole trip took us about an hour return including the 20 minutes we spent up at the river eating our lunch. Time wise and level of difficulty make this a tramp you could do as you passed through on the way to the West Coast. 

Bealey Valley Track: climbing the stairs to the Arthur's Pass Walking Track

...more stairs at the end of the Bealey Valley Track...

Once again the final part of the walk is on the Arthur's Pass Walking Track as you walk along the last 200 odd meters of the track to the car-park. This will probably be the next tramp Karen and I walk in the National Park as it is a really nice three hour return trip from the village to the Arthur Dobson Memorial at the top of the pass.

On the Arthur's Pass Walking Track heading for Jacks Hut...

End of the Bealey Valley Track at SH 73, Arthur's Pass

It was great to get back up the Bealey Valley and it was awesome that Karen got to see the end of the track this time. This is another excellent short walk for people passing through or staying in Arthur's Pass and I cannot recommend it enough. 

If you have a spare hour the next time you are passing through Arthur's Pass take a trip up to see the lovely Upper Bealey River. You will not be disappointed. 

Access: Turn off SH 73 at the car-park opposite Jacks Hut, the track starts next to the car-park. The first 200 meters are on the Arthur's Pass Walking Track, then turn off onto the Bealey Valley Track

Track times: 30-40 minutes to the Upper Bealey River, then 30 minutes to the cirque under Goldney Ridge.

Hut Details: Jacks Hut (historic)

Miscellaneous: Avalanche and rock fall danger in the Upper Bealey Valley, do not go past the end of the track in winter unless you have some avalanche awareness. No toilets at any point along this track.

Otira Valley Trip, 4th January 2020

 A return to the Otira Valley, Arthur's Pass NP...

Karen and I spent a couple of days in Arthur's Pass National Park in early January and while there we went for a number of short walks in the area. We had some good weather for a change...it was cool but at least it didn't hose with rain like the last two times we have come up here. 

DOC sign at the start of the Otira Valley Track

One of the trips we did was up the Otira Valley to the footbridge half way to the head cirque...the last time I was up here was back in 2016 and I wanted to show Karen what a nice valley it is. It is sub alpine and alpine terrain up here...rocks, water and flora suited to the climate. 

Otira Valley Track: a scree slide about half way to the bridge

The Otira Valley Track is great in the summer but incredibly dangerous in the Autumn/Winter/Spring as it is flanked on both sides by +1900 meter high ridges. They accumulate a lot of snow and are prone to sudden and devastating avalanches. This makes the Otira Valley a no go zone for the colder snowy months of the year.

The western flank of Mt Rolleston from near the Otira Valley bridge

This is a must do for any slightly adventurous visitor to the park and you are assured of a good work out if you head up the valley. Anyway...lets see what the track looks like...

Tramping to the Otira Valley bridge

The track starts on the left side of SH 73 just past the Arthur Dobson Memorial on the top of Arthur's Pass. It is signposted and has space for about 6-7 cars. The first kilometer is a moderately step climb and it starts right from the first step.

Otira Valley Track: start of the track at SH 73

Side track to the Lake Misery Track from Otira Valley

Karen admires the sub alpine flora on the Otira Valley Track

The track quality is good to start with and then becomes a bit rocky and eroded up the track. The day was overcast and cool but we had on rain or overly strong wind so really it was good conditions for a stroll up the valley. 

The views up and back down the valley get better the higher you climb...and the encompassing ridges and high peaks emphasize how minuscule you are in the greater scheme of things...

Otira Valley Track: view back down to SH73 after the initial climb...

Starting to sidle along the side of  Goldney Ridge

We were visiting past the best time of the year to see the alpine flowers but there were still a lot of mountain daisies and other flower around. We have had a late and cool summer this year so it has knocked the cycles of the plants around a bit.

There are not a lot of trees up this valley but the herbs, shrubs and  multi colored alpine plants make for an interesting backdrop. You often see Chamois and Thar up this valley as they love to eat these succulent alpine plants...sadly we saw no such beasts on this trip.

Mountain daisies along the Otira Valley Track

This valley was shaped by the Rolleston Glacier and by the Otira River....if you were here 20 000 years ago the whole valley would have been filled with an ice sheet that stretched out past the Taramakau Valley 20 odd kilometers further west. That is why the valley is so steep sided...the ice carved the sides clean and it takes a long time to erode. 

Once the ice melted the river got to work gradually pushing gravel down the river bed...an action that continues to this day.

Karen negotiates a rock outcrop...Otira Valley Track

Otira Valley Track: view towards the Mt Temple area

We passed several areas of mountain daisies they are most prevalent in the mid reaches of the Otira Valley as they have an altitude and climate range where they grow. They add a nice touch of color to the usual greens, browns and oranges of the alpine plants. 

More mountain daisies in the Otira Valley

Sub alpine flora and flowers along the Otira Valley Track

There are many different rock forms up this valley and the colors of these range from grey to brown, orange and range from small pebbles to huge chunks of rock the size of a multi story house. 

Karen crosses the scree slide mid way to Otira Valley bridge

Looking down on the infant Otira river, Otira Valley Track

The other thing you have in the valley is water...there is water everywhere with waterfalls, seeps, creeks, streams and the Otira River itself. If you walk up here on a calm day the sound you will hear is water dripping, falling and flowing. It makes an excellent back-drop to your tramping journey...

Water seep along the Otira Valley Track

Small side stream on the Otira Valley Track

Waterfalls coming off Goldney ridge, Otira Valley 

Another stream crossing the Otira Valley Track

It take from one to one and a half hours to reach the bridge over the Otira River...this is the end of the marked track. From this point onward you require outdoor navigation skills as you make your own way up valley to the head cirque another hour away. 

Arrival at the bridge on the Otira Valley Track

Cascades in the upper reaches of the Otira River, Otira Valley 

End of the road...the Otira Valley bridge

We were pleased to reach the bridge and were looking forward to lunch, a drink and a sit down. 

Lunch at the Otira Valley footbridge

We had decided beforehand to only walk as far as the Otira Valley bridge as it was due to rain later that afternoon. The area around the bridge is an excellent spot to stop out of the wind for a break or lunch so we found a cosy position and settled down to eat. 

Precariously balanced bridge on the Otira Valley Track

The water up here is OK for human consumption if you need to refill..personally I would still treat it as there are isolated cases of Giardia etc. in the park all the time. It is the people...Arthur's Pass is very popular so there are always crowds of people around and where you have crowds you have problems with water quality. 

A bloody freezing cold pool near the Otira Valley bridge

View down the Otira Valley from near the foot bridge

If you come up here in autumn or late spring this is the absolute furthest you should go...you are relatively safe up to this point but past the bridge you are in danger from rock/ice/snow falls off the unstable sides of Mt Philistine. Even in summer you must exercise extreme caution as even an off season snowfall (they happen from time to time...) is a prime candidate for an avalanche. 

Preparing to cross the Otira Valley bridge...

Waterfall coming down from Goldney Ridge, Otira Valley

Looking back on the Otira Valley bridge from the true left bank

Karen and I crossed over the bridge after lunch to takes some photos...there are good vistas up to the western side of Mt Rolleston and also down the valley you have just walked up. 

Goldney Ridge is avalanche prone in winter...Otira River Valley

Some sub alpine plants growing near the Otira Valley bridge

The Otira Valley bridge is a rickety affair..it is stable enough but the only thing holding it between the two boulders it sits on are a couple of cables and a couple of bolts. There used to be a more sturdy metal bridge up here but it got damaged beyond repair in a massive storm and was never replaced. 

Take care when crossing as a fall off the bridge would not be the making of your day...

A nice setting around the Otira Valley bridge

The Otira Valley bridge is balanced between two large boulders...

The flank of Mt Philistine as a backdrop to the Otira Valley bridge

Simple wooden construction of the Otira Valley bridge

We could see parts of Mt Rolleston from the talus field on the true left of the Otira Valley...there was still some snow on this side of the mountain even this late in the year. The snow was all orange as are snowfields on most mountains in the South Island as ash from the huge Australian bush-fires have dusted the snow.

If ever you needed a sign of the inter connected nature of the Earth the smoke filled skies, smell of wood smoke and ash from fires over 3000 kilometers away are a real portent. This is what climate change is going to look like as we go deeper into the 21st Century. 

Jon on the talus slope on the true left of the Otira Valley bridge

View up valley towards the Rolleston cirque, Otira Valley

Orange tinge to snow on Mt Rolleston, Otira Valley 

...lots of loose Weetbix rock on the ridges of Mt Philistine...don't squot Jon like a pompkin!!!

 If you are going up here bring a cooker and have a brew...it would be an excellent spot for a bit of outdoor tea making. I wish we had thought to bring one with us...my light cooker and Ti pot are very light so it would not have been a burden. 

A hansom waterfall just behind the Otira Valley bridge

View down the Otira Valley from near the Otira Valley bridge

 We spent about 20 minutes around the bridge and then packed up our gear ready for the walk back down the valley.

Heading back down to the Otira Valley car park

We set off back down the valley to the car park just past 1 pm...it is a little quicker to walk down the valley than up so I estimated it would take about an hour. This turned out to be just about correct as we got to the car around 2.15. 

Otira Valley Track sidles along the right side of the Otira Valeley

We made good progress down the track and passed quite a few people who were heading up valley. Personally I would plan to visit earlier in the day so as not to become be-nighted in the Otira Valley...even with a head lamp this track would be perfect for falling and breaking your leg etc. tripping over a rock. 

Exposed rock where the Otira Valley Track has eroded

As you head back towards the highway you have some spectacular views of the mountain ranges on the far side of SH73. There are tracks to many of these peaks mostly sidling along the sides of the ranges from the Temple Basin skifield. 

Pt1820 and Phipps Peak from the Otira Valley

Jon on the scree slope mid way down the Otira Valley 

I intend to walk up to Temple Basin again some time in the near future as I am walking tracks in Arthur's Pass this year. Eventually I hope to walk all the tracks in the National Park but I am aware I am getting older every year so we will have to see...

Temple Basin ski-field from the Otira Valley Track

Temple Basin ski-field from the Otira Valley

Jon is stroking a bloody great chunk of rock that had rolled down the side of the ridge leaving big gouges as it rolled. It does make you think.......

Jon loves to stroke the rock....Otira Valley

Good close up of the Mountain Daisies in the Otira Valley

After 45 minutes you get to a spot where you can look down onto SH 73 and the car-park at the start of the track once more. I was pleased to see the car was still there...I dont think I would leave my car there overnight as it would draw the unwanted attentions of the scumbag vandals who regularly break into cars along this highway. 

It is perfectly fine for a day walk as there is a lot of traffic dissuading them from villainy.

SH 73 and Pegleg Valley from the Otira Valley Track

...its big country at the head of the Otira Gorge...

The last kilometer down to the car park is moderately steep and rocky so just take some care when walking along he track. If I am going to hurt myself tramping it usually happens over the last kilometer when I am tired and not paying attention. 

Case in point...I fell over 100 meters away from Whariwharangi Hut on the Abel Tasman Coast Track in October and scrapped my knee...it has only just healed. Be mindful of what you are doing right to the end of the tramp...

Rocky track descending from the Otira Valley

Temple Basin from the Otira Valley Track

Yes....the silver Surfer is still there....Otira Valley Track

We passed a European couple around the point in the photo below and I commented to Karen about how stupid it was heading into a high alpine valley at that time of the day. They were only eqiped with the clothes they were wearing and didn't have any food, warm clothing etc. Sure it is summer and day light savings but it is still a bit dubious starting out on a tramp that late in the day. 

Better to be tramping early, well prepared and cautious than dead....

Approaching the end of the Otira Valley Track

DOC car park at the start of the Otira Valley Track

It was great to get back up the Otira Valley after several years...this really is one of the best short walks in Arthur's Pass National Park. Its not that difficult a track..you just need to be prepared and have the right skills and gear if going past the bridge. I really must come back here soon and show you what its like in the cirque under the western face of Mt Rolleston...preferably before Autumn arrives. 

Camping trip anyone?

Access: Track starts just to the west of Arthur's Pass on SH73, there is a small car-park on the left of the road
Track Times: 1.5 hours to the foot bridge over the Otira River, another 1-1.5 hours to the cirque at the base of Mt Rolleston, same too return.
Miscellaneous:Extreme avalanche danger in spring/winter along all of this track. Do not enter the valley in winter after heavy rain or a late spring snow storm. I'm really not joking...it looks OK but is awesomely dangerous until the snow pack melts....people have died in avalanches in this valley!!!