Another trip to Hawdon Hut, and a visit to Walkers Pass
I
had a plan to spend 4 days over the Labour weekend walking up the Upper
Poulter river for a visit to Lake Minchin. Alas, I was once again beset
by bad weather: snow flurries and rain in Arthur's Pass made the trip
look dodgy.
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The Poulter River from the Binser Saddle Track in 2012
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I went to the track start at Andrews Shelter anyway, but
found 2 van loads from Christchurch Girls High School (about 20 of
them) going on the same trip to Lake Minchin. That would be 21 of us in
16 bunk Casey Hut, and also in the 10 bunk Poulter Hut.
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Arthur's Pass National Park, Hawdon Valley...snow on the surrounding mountains |
NB: Casey Hut burnt down in 2015 so I missed out on visiting one of my favourite huts before it was gone.
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Casey Hut, Arthur's Pass just before it burnt down in 2015 |
Normally that would be fine, as I had my
tent but I didn't fancy the idea of potentially tenting in snow so went
for another option: Hawdon Hut, with a side trip up to Walkers Pass and
the tarn on the pass.
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Hawdon Valley with track to Hawdon Hut |
Heading up the Hawdon River Valley
There were a group of German
tourists in Hawdon Shelter who looked slightly aghast as I explained I
was heading up the valley. No doubt they were thinking more of the crazy
kiwis.......Conditions were cold and windy with the occasional light
fall of snow
during the day, I headed down to the Hawdon and crossed the river.
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Hawdon River from track starting at Hawdon Camp-site Shelter |
There
was a dusting of snow on all of the surrounding peaks, I would estimate
the snowline at 800 meters ASL. Although it looks sunny it was actually
cold, I needed to change into my Merino top for the first time in 2014.
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View to SE of Mt White bridge area from the Hawdon River bed |
I
found a good crossing point downriver of the flood wall at the start of
the track. The river was moderately deep, but clear & able to be
crossed. Normally the the Hawdon has several braids, on this trip it was
just the one deep braid this far down stream. It was a lot deeper the
next day, just on the boundary of being uncross-able by one person.
River crossings are the number one cause of outdoor fatalities in New
Zealand so ALL have to be carefully planned.
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The Pyramid from the true left of Hawdon River, Arthur's Pass National Park |
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View upstream from far side of Hawdon River crossing |
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Jon prepared for the cold in the Hawdon Valley |
I
jumped onto the ATV track which leads up valley, this is the fastest
(if not most comfortable or scenic) way to access the upper Hawdon.
Using the ATV track will save you a good 30-60 minutes of walking time.
Both Surprise Stream and the left braid of the Hawdon were deep so the
ATV fords provided the best crossing points.
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The famous Hawdon valley 4 W/D track, Arthur's Pass National Park |
I
was passed by three DOC workers on ATV's, these were the last people I
would see until 10 am the next day. The valley was totally deserted.
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DOC workers on ATV's, the view up Hawdon Valley |
You can see the low snowline on the distant ridges, it would be 100-200 meters up the side of the mountain.
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Late spring conditions Arthur's Pass region...the Hawdon River Valley |
It looks OK but it was windy and the odd snow shower fell throughout the day.
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View up valley towards Upper Hawdon, Arthur's Pass National Park |
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Snowline along Woolshed Hill, Arthur's Pass National Park |
All the mountains along this valley are at least 1200 meters high, some go to 1800 meters.
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Rugged ranges behind the Pyramid from the Hawdon Valley, Arthur's Pass National Park |
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Arthur's Pass National Park: Hawdon Valley, fresh snow on surrounding mountains |
There
is a great wee bivy further up the East Hawdon, the rough track up this
valley is one of the ones that I occasionally do maintenance on as part
of Permolat. Permolat/Remote huts is a group of
trampers/hunters/fishermen who maintain seldom used huts and tracks,
mostly on the West Coast. I clear wind throw, do some cutting back and
track marking etc. In fact, Im due a visit to the East Hawdon soon.
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View up the East Hawdon from the confluence with the Hawdon River |
I'm
currently looking for a hut to take over as a maintenance task, North
Esk bivy has been recommended to me. With a new government incentive you
can apply for funds to maintain old DOC huts and tracks through the
FMC, this covers materials, helicopter back flights etc. Permolat
members are doing some amazing work to maintain huts that would
otherwise be removed.
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Woolshed Hill from mid point of Hawdon Valley |
After
the second crossing of the Hawdon River the track is on the true right
for the rest of the way to the hut. Hard to see but it was lightly
snowing when I reached this point.
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On the true right of the Hawdon River
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Here is an example of the nice (but sparse) formed track along the valley floor.
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Bush track along true right of Hawdon River, Arthur's Pass National Park |
Walker
Pass is at the head of the valley and takes you over the ranges into
the Otehake basin, it is part of the Hawdon-Edwards Route. Most people
walk it the other way (Edwards to Hawdon) as there are a number of
tricky river crossings at the start near the Bealey & Mingha rivers.
If you start at the Hawdon Valley and it rains, you could end up stuck
for days on the wrong side of the Bealey staring at your car parked 200
meters away.
Classic New Zealand tramping conditions!
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Walker Pass area from the Hawdon Track |
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Boulder bash on way to Hawdon Hut, Arthur's Pass National Park |
The
current Hawdon Hut is the second in this valley, the original hut was
burnt down by some fool in 2006 and the new hut was located in a much
better location about a kilometre further up the valley. The old hut
site is still an excellent spot to camp though, as the clearing is flat
and the long drop toilet is still maintained.
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Old Hawdon hut location in Upper Hawdon Valley, Arthur's Pass National Park |
All
that remains of the old hut are the pilings, burnt, and sticking up out
of the soil.The new hut is great but the old Lockwood hut had a lot of
character. The lesson here: don't leave a fire burning in an unoccupied
hut you clowns! That's how this happened.
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Hawdon Hut I site: all that's left of the old hut |
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Hawdon Hut I from back in the late 1990's |
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In the Hawdon Valley, Walkers Pass to left of centre peak |
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Hawdon Valley track, hut 500 metres away, Arthur's Pass National Park |
Soon
after I arrived at Hawdon Hut, the hut was deserted, the last visitor
was here on the Wednesday. I had a quick bite to eat, a hot drink and
put my gear on my selected bunk for the night. After lunch, I grabbed my
jacket and emergency gear and headed out along the track up to Walkers
Pass.
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View of Upper Hawdon valley from Hawdon Hut |
Here
I am outside the new Hawdon Hut (2007), it is really nice, excellent
insulation though there was bugger all wood in the shed when I arrived. I
hauled a couple of logs over later in the day and cut them up for
future use.
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Jon at Hawdon Hut, Arthur's Pass National Park |
I
had a Kea following me for most of the way to the Pass. The NZ Mountain
Parrot or Kea, are wonderful clown's, as well as wholesale destroyers
of expensive tents, wind-shield wipers, roofing and other gear if
allowed. In 1950 there were estimated to be over 150 000 of them, they
are becoming endangered with only 1500 or so left in the wild. I
remember flocks of 10-30 Kea being common 30 years ago, now you are
lucky to see 1-3 in a day.
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The New Zealand Mountain Parrot: a Kea |
The
first part of the Walker Pass Track was very nice, flat and well
marked. I was immediately put on my guard because that usually means the
next part is hilly, broken and indistinct. I was not mistaken...
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The track to Walker Pass from Hawdon Hut |
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Twin Falls stream, Walker Pass track |
Once you start to climb the track becomes a mess of rock, roots and steep inclines right up to the Pass....
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Arthur's Pass National Park: Track to Walker Pass, climbing... |
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Arthur's Pass National Park: downhill view of Walker Pass track |
Here is another Kea checking me out...no doubt he was thinking more of the crazy kiwis
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Kea who followed me up the Hawdon Valley |
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Walkers Pass Track: view down valley from half way point |
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Classic sub alpine forest near Walkers Pass, Arthur's Pass National Park |
About
half way to the top you pass the Twin Falls, respectively 30 and 40
meters high, this is as close as you can get safely due to bluffs.
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Fall one: Twin Falls on the Walkers Pass Track |
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Arthur's Pass National Park: Walkers Pass Track: Twin Falls, Fall two |
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Twin Falls, a closer view of Fall One, Hawdon Valley |
Eventually the beech forest gives way to alpine plants....
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Walker Pass Track: Start of alpine zone Hawdon Valley |
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Me resting near top of Walkers Pass Track |
...until you reach the last part of the climb before the Pass.
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Track just before reaching Walkers Pass, Arthur's Pass National Park |
When
you reach the top there is a plateau about a 2 kilometres across, at
the far end you can see down into the Otehake Valley and points west.
If you have crossed Walkers Pass you have also crossed the Southern
Alps. The tarn pictured below is near the Otehake end of the pass, and
yes the water in it is god-damn cold! (hand test not full immersion
test, yikes I don't even want to imagine how cold it would be to swim
in...).
I didn't dally for too long as it was snowing, windy and there was low lying cloud about.
Not great conditions to be out by yourself on an exposed mountain pass.
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The tarn on Walkers Pass, Arthur's Pass National Park |
The photo below is of Walker Pass on a nice fine day from the
ArthursPass.com website...
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Arthur's Pass National Park: Walker Pass in fine weather, Otehake end |
And here is a view of the whole pass area from the knoll heading down into the Hawdon Valley, this photo is from
Backcountry Bibles as part of the classic Edwards-Tarn Col-Hawdon Valley trip.
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Arthur's Pass National Park: view of complete Walker Pass from Hawdon Valley end, |
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Afternoon view of Hawdon Valley, snow falling |
Meanwhile, back at Hawdon Hut...
I was surprised to have the
hut completely to myself, I felt sure that it would be bursting at the
seams by the evening, but I passed the night in quiet solitude. I
imagine the bad weather put a lot of people off a visit to the valley. I
chopped up a good load of wood and had the fire going...even though the
hut is big it was quite cosy after awhile.
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Interior of Hawdon Hut, Arthur's Pass National Park |
I
dined on some cheese, olives and crackers for an entrée, freeze dried
BCC Lamb and Vegetables for a main, a couple of hot drinks and a good
nine hours of sleep. My new down sleeping bag was a great success, man
it is warm, almost too warm, so I opened it out and used it as a quilt.
I
heard several Kiwi calling during the night as well as a Morepork (a
type of native Owl) who was sitting on a tree branch right outside the
hut.
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Tasty repast: Roast Lamb and Vege with mashed spuds in Hawdon Hut |
DOC
have been heavily trapping rats, stouts and possums in the valley and
it is obviously having an effect, I have never heard as much early
morning birdsong before anywhere in Arthur's Pass. We often give DOC
stick about how they do things wrong but sometimes they really get
things right.
Good job DOC!
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Morning view of upper Hawdon Valley |
I
had a quick breakfast of "Pog" and headed out, there had been a good
frost overnight, luckily I had drawn some water the previous night as
the tap on the water tank was frozen solid. I got it going before
leaving by giving it a good whack with a stick to break up the ice.
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Hawdon Valley: Wide expanse of gravel, typical Southern Alps |
Below is a shot of the frost on the grass, this is just down valley from the old hut site.
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Heavy frost on grass in the mid Hawdon Valley |
The
sun doesn't reach the valley floor until 10am most mornings, here you
can see the sunlight making its way down the mountains at 0830.
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Arthur's Pass National Park: view looking down valley, Hawdon Valley |
You
pass a couple of old dry stream beds along the track, some obviously
haven't seen any water for a long time as they are covered in a striking
red moss, like in the shot below.
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Hawdon Valley, dry riverbed, with moss covered rocks, Arthur's Pass National Park |
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Crossing sidestream on Hawdon track, Arthur's Pass National Park |
There
are some very attractive short sections of track through the bush they
make a nice change to the boulder and gravel bash most of this track
consists of.
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Beautiful riverside forest track in Hawdon Valley |
The
river level was slightly up, moderate level or up to my knees, nothing
to worry about with a bit of care and planning. Bear in mind that my
knees are about a meter off the ground.
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Arthur's Pass National Park: In the Hawdon Valley, river crossing point mid valley |
The
main channel of the Hawdon has shifted: it used to run down the extreme
left of the valley, now it is following the true right and centre
channels. Last time I was up here in 2013 this riverbed was dry, it is
now suprising deep, up to my knees at least and swift.
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New course of Hawdon River, Arthur's Pass National Park |
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Jon in the Hawdon Valley, nearly at the car! |
The
end of another good trip, not what I had planned it was still a good
use of my time. I really was surprised to have the hut to myself
overnight, I put it down to the weather on the Friday, as I saw 34
people heading up valley over the course of the Saturday morning.
If
any of you are looking for a great first tramp or easy trip, a tramp to
Hawdon Hut should be right up your alley. A word of caution though,
watch the weather as even a moderate amount of rain will make the Hawdon
impassable to all but large and experienced parties.
Access: Turn
off SH 73 at Mt White bridge, take the road to Hawdon Shelter. The
track starts next to the shelter, fords Hawdon River and continues up
valley to the hut and Walkers Pass.
Track times: 4 hours to Hawdon Hut, another 1.5 hour to Walkers Pass
Hut Details: Hawdon Shelter: shelter only, open fireplace, toilets: Hawdon Hut, serviced, 18 bunks, water tanks, fire box, wood shed, toilets
Miscellaneous: Hawdon River is prone to flooding in rain and dangerous if in flood. There are at least 5 mandatory river crossings on this track.
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