The East Hawdon Valley: A route less travelled...
In
February 2013 I went for an overnight trip up to East Hawdon Biv, on a
tributary of the Hawdon river. The first part of the trip is the easy 4
W/D track going up the Hawdon valley. Once you reach the East Hawdon
confluence the real fun begins. There is no official track up the East
Hawdon, it is a route using the riverbed and short sections of bush
track cut by members of the Permolat group.
Mid way up the East Hawdon Valley, Arthurs Pass NP |
Permolat are a group of trampers who maintain seldom visited tracks and huts in the South Island.
The
Department of Conservation or DOC is strapped for cash, they lack the
resources to maintain every track and hut in the back country.
Individuals and volunteer groups have started to assist with this task.
Hawdon Shelter to the East Hawdon confluence |
Day One: Start in the Hawdon Valley
As
with all trips here you start at the Hawdon Shelter, make sure you sign
the intentions book before you go, and for gods sake sign out when you
are finished. Don't linger or the sand flies will carry you off!
I'm not kidding......they are HUGH, vicious and love the human flesh...you have been warned!
Once
over the Hawdon River and Sudden Valley Stream look for the old 4 W/D
track for the fastest travel up valley. It really is worthwhile to find
this track as it will save you a good 30 minutes.
Hawdon Valley, 4 W/D track |
You eventually pass through a patch of re-generating bush just before the Hawdon - East Hawdon River confluence.
Officially
there is no track from this point, this is a route so you set your own
course. You follow the river bed from this point, there are some short
sections of track mostly on the true right of the valley, keep an eye
out for these as they make the travelling much easier.
East Hawdon Route...no marked track, make your own! |
After
the first shingle flat the valley narrows, you will need to find the
best line up the valley. This may be impossible if there has been any
rain as the East Hawdon is prone to flooding.
There are several points where you MUST cross the river, they were all easy crossings on this day. I ended up crossing the river 17 times going up, a lot less coming back as I found all the short sections of track.
There are several points where you MUST cross the river, they were all easy crossings on this day. I ended up crossing the river 17 times going up, a lot less coming back as I found all the short sections of track.
Believe me, I wasn't crossing the river just for fun but because I needed to!
It
is a very beautiful valley, quiet and tranquil, I only saw one hunter
the whole day, although there was another woman working her way up the
valley ahead of me. I never actually saw her, only her boot prints here
and there.
The valley is alternate shingle flats, bush and gorges, with the occasional rock clamber, it is rugged but not too technical.
East Hawdon: river bed travel prevails for most of the day |
Because
I missed some of the short track sections I ended up climbing over some
rocky areas I could have bypassed. The tracks seem to have been cut
from the top of the valley down, so are more visible when going down
valley.
Look for the tracks- mostly on the true right!
Look for the tracks- mostly on the true right!
This large shingle flat is just beyond the halfway point, it is the widest part of the valley.
Break
time, and boy did I need it by here as it was HOT.. about 25 degrees on
the day. There is a nice river terrace behind me which would make a
good camping spot if you only wanted a taste of this valley. Large flat
area, well away from the river and some vegetation to protect you from
wind.
Below
is a scree slope which reaches from the top of the Blackball Ridge
(near Pt 1695) all the way down to the river. You must walk on the side
nearest to the slide as there is a series of deep pools on the true
left. Don't stop here as there is absolutely no cover if a rock decides
to come down. I took this photo while moving!
This point is about 1 km from the bivy, there is just the one last gorge before you reach it.
Look
for the sidle track on the true right, it completely avoids this whole
second gorge.The biv is about 20 minutes up valley from this gorge.
N.B:
(2017) I slipped over near here- I landed on my leg and it hurt like
hell. I thought it might be broken but was not. It got me to thinking
about how long I would be stuck here if I had broken my leg. As a result
I first borrowed then brought my own personal locator beacon, I now
carry one on every tramp.
Eventually
you will reach the East Hawdon Biv, which is a fine example of the new 2
bunk bivs that DOC are building. Upper Poulter and Sudden Valley are of
the exact same design.
East Hawdon hut details |
East Howden Biv with fire pit to right |
Make
sure you open the windows while you are here, especially when cooking.
These small spaces build up moisture and carbon monoxide really fast.
There are bug screens on the windows so you can open them and not get
eaten alive.
I spent a very quiet night by myself at the bivouac: dinner was steak, spuds, peas
with gravy and a can of beer. I heard several kiwi calling during the night, one quite
close to the biv so there must be a few in the area.
I also saw a herd of 4-6 deer on the opposite slope of the valley, they
moved back and forth grazing for about an hour in the late afternoon.
The next day was also beautifully sunny, I rose early and set off back down
the valley to the car. It was a glorious morning and I made excellent
time as I discovered all of the sidle tracks I missed on the previous
day.
River terrace next to East Hawdon Biv, looking down valley |
East Hawdon Biv sitting on its river terrace |
There
are some big mountain ranges in this area, the surrounding peaks are in
the 1600-1800 metre range, this tends to make the valley a bit dark and
intimidating.
I have heard it is perishingly cold up here in winter.
I have heard it is perishingly cold up here in winter.
The East Hawdon, a scree slope you have to get past |
Eventually you reach the last gorge in the valley, from here there is just the slog down the last shingle flat and then onto the trusty Hawdon Valley 4 W/D track.
I
really enjoyed this trip, the valley is beautiful, the route rugged
without being dangerous, the biv is excellent. I would totally recommend
it for a small group or individual, provided you realise that this is a
route, not a track. I would not go here if it is raining as I can see
that several of the river crossings would be difficult if not impossible
with any rain.
I
would wear heavier tramping boots next time. Walking over the rocks
will give you sore feet unless you are wearing good boots. I had my
light Hi-Tecs on and my feet were feeling the pain by the end of the
second day.
I will be back again, this is a great location!
Access: SH73 to the Mt White Road turn off, once over the Mt White bridge head left to Hawdon Shelter. From Hawdon Shelter follow the track crossing the Hawdon River and Sudden Valley Stream, follow the 4 W/D track up valley. Turn right up East Hawdon and make own route.
Track Times: 4-5 hours from the Hawdon Shelter
Hut Details: Hawdon Shelter: day shelter only- no bunks, no water but does have open fireplace. There are plenty of rough camp-sites here: East Hawdon Biv; basic, 2 bunks, space for a third on floor, water from stream, outside fire pit.
Miscellaneous: Hawdon River, East Hawdon and Sudden Valley Stream susceptible to flooding in heavy rain, none of the rivers or side streams are bridged. Numerous required river crossings. This IS NOT a wet weather destination.
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