Further adventures in Arthurs Pass...Devils Punchbowl Falls
Continuing with our trip to Arthurs Pass NP...after visiting the Bealey Valley Track we went back down to the village and had a look around the railway station. It was designed by a leading architect back in the 1930s and has been in continuous use since.
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| Mt Bealey and Rough Creek from the Arthurs Pass train station |
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| Arthurs Pass Village is 750 meters ASL |
Trains have always been a vital part of this park...from the 1930's to the late 1970's the prime way to visit was on the train. Day trips, tramping excursions and the regular passenger trains to the West Coast provided a means of transport to the park. Sadly those days are gone as the only passenger service is the TranzAlpine which costs over $150 just to get to Arthurs Pass.
Everyone drives now...the only public transport is via the shuttles between Christchurch and Greymouth.
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| Historic Arthurs Pass Railway Station |
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| Silver Surfer parked near the National Park stone |
Despite the dearth of public transport the park is still busy and receives over 2 million visitors per year though most are only transiting along SH73. This means the tracks around the village can sometimes be busy.
Devils Punchbowl Falls:
So as a finale and to end our trip up to Arthurs Pass we went and walked up to the Punchbowl Falls...the most popular track in Arthurs Pass NP. Over 250 000 people visited the track annually before Covid and I expect those numbers to eventually return. Looking back over the blog I see I have not been to the Falls since 2018...funny but that doesn't seem so long ago!
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| Start of the track at the Arthurs Pass Walking Track carpark |
You start the walk to the Punchbowl Falls from the carpark for the Arthurs Pass Walking Track. The car-park will hold about 30-40 cars, it was early so it was mostly empty. The car park is the starting point for a number of tracks: Cons Track to the top of Mt Cassidy
Scott's Track to the summit of Avalanche Peak
Devils Punchbowl Falls Track
Arthur's Pass Historic Walk
Arthur's Pass Walking Track
All but Scotts Track start on the far side of the bridge over the Bealey River so just make for the bridge...
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| This is the start point for many good tracks... |
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| Punchbowl Falls is in the notch before Mt Cassidy |
To start with you are walking over an expanse of gravel river bed to the Bealey River Bridge...these side streams can flood in heavy rain so if you get to the stream bed and it is full turn around as the potential run off into the Bealey River is dangerous. Usually they are as dry as a bone...probably 99.9% of the time...
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| Devils Punchbowl Falls the first view from the track |
Dogs are not allowed into National Parks in New Zealand so if you have the pooch on board leave it in the car....there are Kiwi in these forests and we all want to protect them.
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| No dogs are allowed in the National Park |
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| Great view of the waterfall from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track |
The Bealey River Bridge is a heavy duty footbridge similar to the Morrisons Bridge on the Otira River and makes the tracks on the far side all weather as they have bridges on all of the side streams that cross them. There are some great views both up and down the Bealey River from the bridge.
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| Bealey River bridge, Arthurs Pass Walking Track |
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| Downstream from the Bealey River footbridge |
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| The Bealey River footbridge makes these all weather tracks... |
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| View upstream from the Bealey River footbridge |
On the far side of the bridge you will turn left to continue along the Arthurs Pass Walking Track up to Arthurs Pass. If you go right you are heading for Cons Track, the Arthurs Pass Historic Walk and the Punchbowl Falls.
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| Information panel on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track |
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| Start of the Punchbowl Falls Track |
Cons Track starts from a sign about 200 meters up from the bridge and heads up the left side of Punchbowl Falls to the top of Mt Blimit and up onto the Polar Range. It is a seriously steep, rocky and hazardous track and you shouldn't really be heading up it past the bushline unless you have some moderate rock climbing skills and route finding abilities.
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| Start of Cons Track up Mt Blimit, Arthur's Pass NP |
There is another footbridge across Punchbowl Stream and this is the proper start to the Punchbowl Falls Track. Once over the bridge there is a short flat section before you start the climb up to the apex of the track just past the turn off to Aickens Track.
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| Punchbowl Footbridge, Arthurs Pass NP |
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| Arthurs Pass Village is visible from the Punchbowl Footbridge |
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| Looking up Punchbowl Stream to the waterfall |
The track is in excellent condition but be aware there are a number of steps, stairs and uphill track sections between here and the viewing platform at the end of the track.
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| On the Punchbowl Falls Track over the bridge |
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| Junction of Punchbowl Falls Track and Historic Walk |
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| There are a series of steps along the Punchbowl Falls Track |
We were passed by a group of younger people heading up the Aicken Track...this is another hard track which heads up to the top of Mt Aicken on the right side of Punchbowl Falls. If you walk up this track to the bushline you can see down into the hanging valley that Punchbowl Falls draws its water from. There is a lake and large catchment to be seen...
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| Climbing up to the apex of the Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| Start of Aicken Track in Arthurs Pass NP |
Just past the Aicken Track turn off we encountered a number of South Island Robins along the track. They are not shy birds and two of them came down to check us out and one even landed on my shoe as they are wont to do. We saw a lot of Robins in the forest in the park both on the Bealey Valley Track and this one...
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| South Island Robin on the Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| Another South Island Robin comes to investigate |
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| South Island Robins are certainly not shy... |
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| Great shot of a Robin...Punchbowl Falls Track |
As you climb the track there are occasional glimpses of the wider forest including up the Bealey Valley towards the pass and down into the Punchbowl Stream.
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| View of top of waterfall from the Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| There are plenty of steps to climb... |
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| Karen is just about at the apex of the Punchbowl Falls Track |
It takes about 10 minutes to climb up to the apex of the Punchbowl Falls Track then it is downhill to the viewing platform at the track end. There was a recently cleared slip along this section and you could see where the DOC Rangers have pushed all the slip debris over the track edge and down towards the stream below...
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| Descending down from the apex of the Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| New slip face on the Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| Nice track going to Punchbowl Falls |
This track has existed for a very long time and has been continually upgraded over the years. There are just as many steps and stairs on this side of the track apex and they make the trip easier than in the past. It used to be quite a dangerous sidle track until the late 1990's when all the stairs, steps and boardwalk were constructed.
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| Descending stairs on the Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| ...there are lots of stairs on the way to Punchbowl Falls... |
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| Sidling along Mt Aicken enroute to Punchbowl Falls |
Towards the end of the track you climb up another set of steps to reach a sizeable platform at the end of this track. The viewing platform has been constructed level with the lower cascades of Punchbowl Falls on the safest bit of flat land.
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| Stairs to the platform at Punchbowl Falls |
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| There is a viewing platform at the top of the stairs |
Punchbowl Falls is the third highest in this National Park at 112 meters and they fall in one continuous drop from a lake in a hanging valley. At the bottom of the falls are a series of cascades which take the Punchbowl Stream further down the valley. The Falls are striking especially in heavy rain and drop down into a bowl at the base which is just out of sight from the lookout.
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| Devils Punchbowl Falls (112), Arthurs Pass NP |
It is not recommended but it is possible to skirt along the edge of the cascades to look down into the bowl at the bottom of the Falls. If you do so you are under your own responsibility as there are fall and rockfall hazards from the cliffs which overhang the whole area. I recommend you go no further than the viewing platform but if you must take extreme care and do not climb up the sides of the falls themselves.
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| It is dangerous to leave the Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| Lower cascade of Punchbowl Falls |
There is an interpretive board at the viewing platform which gives a bit of information about the Falls and also the Maori creation story. Maori parties climbing over Arthurs Pass to the West Coast used to go up this side of the Bealey Valley so this was a familiar landmark to the occasional party which used this route.
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| Information about the Punchbowl Falls |
Punchbowl Falls are one of the most picturesque in Canterbury and I have been up this track many, many times both as a child and into adulthood. They really are quite beautiful which is probably why over 250 000 people visited them every year before Covid hit...
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| There is a basin at the base of Punchbowl Falls |
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| The full length of the Punchbowl Falls |
We were at the viewing platform for about 10 minutes taking photos and enjoying the view and in that time about a dozen other people arrived and or left. This would not be unusually especially as it was a weekend and a lovly sunny day.
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| Karen at the Punchbowl Falls viewing platform |
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| Jon with Punchbowl Falls to the rear |
After awhile we headed back down the stairs and started to make our way back to the carpark.
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| Heading back down off the Punchbowl Falls platform |
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| The Punchbowl Falls cascades under the platform |
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| Folded rock strata near Punchbowl Falls |
On the way I took the short side track at the bottom of the stairs to a point where you can climb down to the the edge of the Punchbowl Stream. You have a fine view of the the lower cascade of the falls from here...
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| Lower Cascades of the Punchbowl Falls |
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| Another view of the lower Punchbowl Falls cascades |
The way back is just to return along the same track...it is easier this direction as the climb to the track apex is short and then it is downhill or flat all the way back to the car.
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| Heading back to the carpark...Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| Foliage along the Punchbowl Falls Track |
Take care on the stairs as they are a bit slippery...the track is shaded along most of its length and there is a build up of moss on the steps.
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| Climbing back to the apex of the Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| ...ever upward we travel... |
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| More stairs heading for the apex of Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| Limited views are available up the Bealey River Valley |
We had another South Island Robin visit us just short of the track apex and he landed on a rock face next to the track and checked out al the people passing by...
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| Another South Island Robin on the Punchbowl Falls Track |
Once over the track apex it is all downhill and from here it is about five minutes walk to get back to the footbridge over Punchbowl Stream.
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| Over the apex of the Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| DOC sign on the Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| ...down the stairs to the Punchbowl Stream... |
There is a point heading down from the apex with an excellent view further up the Bealey Valley and you can easily make out Mt Rolleston, Rome Ridge and Goldneys Ridge. You can see the river valley the Bealey Valley Track goes up a couple of kilometers away...
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| View of distant Rome and Goldney's Ridges |
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| Rome Ridge with Goldneys Ridge to rear... |
We passed a lot of people heading up to check out the Punchbowl Falls and steadily made our way down. Take care on the gravel track sections as the gravel is small and round and it is a bit slippery.
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| Descending on the Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| Punchbowl Footbridge from Punchbowl Falls Track |
We were soon back down on level ground and heading back over the Punchbowl Falls footbridge heading for the carpark...
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| Back on flat ground...Punchbowl Falls Track |
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| Punchbowl Falls Track...back over Punchbowl Footbridge |
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| Avalanche Peak is to the rear of Arthurs Pass Village |
There are good views across to the Arthurs Pass Village and the mountains on the other side of the Bealey River. You can clearly see both the Avalanche Creek Track and Scotts Track winding up to the high point of Avalanche Peak.
I haven't been up the Avalanche Creek Track for a while now but it is the most popular track in the park. It has fantastic views but it is the most rugged, steep and exposed of tracks...you really pay for those views!!!
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| A distant Arthurs Pass Village from near Punchbowl Stream |
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| Mt Avalanche from the Scotts Track end |
There are some picnic table scattered along the tree line between Punchbowl Stream and the turn off to the Arthurs Pass Walking Track. They would be an ok place to stop for some lunch but bring the Deet as I know from personal experience that they are sandfly magnets....
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| Picnic tables near the Punchbowl Footbridge |
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| Eastern end of the Bealey River Footbridge |
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| ...in a storm these rocks are all underwater... |
Just over the bridge and on the way to the carpark is a natural window in the forest canopy with the best long distance view of Punchbowl Falls. I recommend you stop for a photo and it makes an ideal frame with trees on either side and with the Punchbowl Falls, Mt Aicken and Mt Cassidy in the distance.
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| Punchbowl Falls between Mt Cassidy and Mt Aicken |
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| Closer view of the Punchbowl Falls |
It is just 300 meters from here back to the carpark and the ground you cover is nice flat gravel with a well worn 4 W/D track to follow...
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| Arthurs Pass Walking Track enroute to carpark |
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| Mt Cassidy (1850), Arthurs Pass NP |
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| The Arthurs Pass Walking Track carpark comes into view |
There are two carparks at the end of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track and in total they can hold about 40-50 cars at any one time. It is relatively safe to leave your car here as it is busy but obviously don't tempt the scum by leaving valuable on display...that would be too much temptation.
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| Arthurs Pass Walking Track carpark Arthur's Pass |
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| There is a toilet at the start of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track |
The Punchbowl Falls are one of the highlights of Arthurs Pass NP and you must visit them if passing this way. Great trip to a nice location and one I will hopefully return too many more times.
Access: Turn off SH 73 gravel road, right hand side, on the western edge of Arthur's Pass township. The track starts next to the car-park. The first 500 meters are on the Arthur's Pass Walking Track, then turn off to the Devils Punchbowl Falls Track
Track times: 1-1.5 hours return if time is spent admiring the falls from the viewing platform
Miscellaneous: Do not leave the track or attempt to approach the Punchbowl Falls as the area is prone to rock fall and is wet and slippery at all times. No toilets at any point along this track except at the carpark. Do not drink the water out of Punchbowl Falls Stream as it has Giardia in it from time to time.
