Monday, November 14, 2022

My oldest tramping kit item: Kovea Backpacker stove

...a faithful friend over many years... 

Last weekend was Canterbury Anniversary and I spent three days in Nelson Lakes National Park on a base camp trip. I stayed at the motel and went for day walks about the park. I had planned something a bit grander but I am having problems with my ankle so this seemed like the best option. 

Making a coffee with my Kovea Backpacking stove

While I was visiting the Mt Robert carpark I utilised my oldest piece of tramping kit to boil water for a coffee. It was my Kovea Backpacker stove which I have now owned for 33 years!!!

In the shelter at the Mt Robert Carpark, Nelson Lakes NP

I thought we could have a look at this awesome bit of kit. 


In use for 33 years...

I don't have a lot of my old camping gear from back in the 1990's but one item I do still own is a Kovea Backpacker stove I brought way back in 1990. I have used this small stove on and off for the last 33 years and it has been on many adventures with me both in New Zealand and overseas.  

Kovea stove in use, Lakehead Hut in 2016

I originally brought this stove for use in the field when I was a Signaler in the New Zealand Army. Back in those days we were issued Hexamine cubes for heating our meals...Hexamine or 'hexie' is a cube of petrochemical based solid fuel.  Hexamine is a slow and inefficient cooking material and also very smoky which is less than tactical. 

Esbit cubes are a form of Hexamine

Most of us eventually brought a small butane gas stove to take out on field exercises. This meant you could cook faster and with less visible smoke and a medium sized gas canister would easily last you 4-5 days.

Just a side note...I still have vivid memories of the smell of Spaghetti and meatballs cooking over a hexamine cube...it smelt wonderful. It is one of the most powerful memories of that time in my life. 

Kovea Backpacker Stove

 I brought this stove from a outdoor equipment store that is long since closed. I cannot for the life of me remember its name but it was located opposite Ballentine's on Cashel Street. This was WAY before Macpac, Kathmandu, Torpedo Seven and their ilk. If anyone can remember the store drop a comment below...

Various medium sized gas canister brands

Post army I used it for camping and tramping trips intermittently for many years. When I got back into tramping properly in the early 2010's this was the stove I hauled out and used for every trip. I only relegated it to secondary use after I brought a new Titanium stove in 2016. 


Kovea Backpacker Stove: a quick look...

Here are some features and specifications of the Kovea Backpacker stove:


The stove comes in a small nylon bag and it can be folded into a flat shape to fit the bag. The pot support arms are articulated and fold back to rest above the gas regulator knob. Before use the arms must be opened and a gas canister screwed onto the bottom of the stove. 

The arms on the Kovea Backpacker stove fold

Brew time at the Mt Robert carpark

You must ensure the pot support arms are fixed in their grooves before balancing a pot on the stove...this is to stop them moving and spilling your contents. There are small notches the pot arms fit into and when engaged the stove is as stable as any stove of this type. 

Lunch at the Mt Robert carpark shelter

I was using my Toak's 1.3 liter cook pot with the stove...this pot is titanium so it is very light and robust. I can easily fit a 350 gm gas canister inside as well as the Kovea stove with my cup and ancillary gear on the top. All of this is carried inside a small blue nylon stuff sack. 

I was using my Toaks titanium cook pot

I was also using my Sea to Summit Delta mug on this occasion...I could just have made the coffee in my cook pot but you tend to burn your lips. Titanium conducts heat really well so it is always better to use a separate cup preferably made of plastic. 


Sea to Summit Delta mug in use

The stove folds down into a small nylon bag and if you fold it correctly you should have no problems fitting it back into the bag. You could leave the bag at home but it protects the stove and stops soot getting all through your other gear in your pack.. 

Kovea stove folded to be packed


Here are some additional photos of the stove in use over the years...


In the Blue-Grey River bed, Victoria Forest Park (2015)

On a day trip to Packhorse Hut, Banks Peninsula (2014)

Lunchtime at Anchorage Hut, Abel Tasman NP (2017)

Post dinner drinks at Packhorse Hut, Banks Peninsula (2016)

 Nina Hut, Lewis Pass National Reserve in 2015

Mid Robinson Hut, Victoria Forest Park (2015)

Up at East Hawdon Bivy in 2013

This is one of two Kovea stoves I currently own the other is a Kovea Moonwalker which is a remote canister stove. That is another lovely camping stove but I will leave discussion of that for some future post...


Look for future trips featuring the Backpacker stove

I really like my Kovea Backpacker stove and still pull it out of my gear storage and take it on trips from time to time. Its latest multiday outing was to the Abel Tasman Coastal Walk with my sister earlier this year. It doesn't get as much use as it once did as I currently own seven other backpacking stoves but I would never sell it or give it away...

You Tube: Kovea Backpacker Stove 

Thursday, October 6, 2022

Arthurs Pass Walking Track, Arthurs Pass NP: 18 September 2022

Spring heralds a return to Arthurs Pass NP

Spring has arrived and with it an increase in the tempo of my tramping program. I have been idling along over the winter months but I am looking to get a few trips under the belt over the next month or so to get the fitness up for some longer and more complex trips later in the summer. 

Start of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

This time I went up to Arthurs Pass and walked up to the Dobson Memorial on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track. 

On the Arthurs Pass Walking Track:

 The Arthurs Pass Walking track is about 6 km's return or 2-3 hours walking on a mostly easy & well maintained track. I have walked this track a number of times now and seen it in many different seasons. The track quality is excellent, Great Walk standard really, and it stays at this level all the way to the pass. 

View of the north side of the Bealey Valley

Silver Surfer parked at the Arthurs Pass Walking Track carpark

Map and information panels at the carpark

You start the track at the Punchbowl Falls carpark at the western end of Arthur's Pass Village and walk right up to the Dobson Memorial overlooking the Otira Valley. Several tracks start from here including the Punchbowl Falls Track, Arthurs Pass Historic Walk, Scotts Track and the tracks to both Mt Aicken and Mt Cassidy. 

Start of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Map: Arthurs Pass Walking Track

There are several spots on the way to the footbridge over the Bealey River where you have excellent views of the Devil's' Punchbowl Falls on the true left of the Bealey River. Punchbowl Falls are 112 meters high...one of several waterfalls over 100 meters in the park. 

Iconic view of the Punchbowl Falls, Arthurs Pass NP

As you approach the footbridge over the Bealey River there is a window in the bush purpose built for excellent photos of the nearby waterfall.


Bush window frames the Punchbowl Falls beautifully

 The bridge crosses over the Bealey River but just before it there is a side track which will take you up to SH73 and the start of Scotts Track to the summit of Avalanche Peak. There is no sign there which I find interesting as there was one there the last time I visited Punchbowl Falls.


Crossing the Bealey River Bridge, Arthurs Pass NP

Bealey River upstream of bridge

The Arthurs Pass Walking Track veers off to the left on the opposite side of the Bealey River and heads off along a flat Beech tree line corridor before starting the climb up this side of the valley. The track is wide and well maintained and the gradient is easy and consists of a slowly ascending track and a number of sets of steps which helps you to rapidly gain altitude. 


Junction of Arthurs Pass Walking Track and Punchbowl Falls Track

Finally into the forest on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

The Arthurs Pass Walking Track is surrounded by Beech trees

This is an all weather track as all streams and creeks are bridged and the canopy of Beech trees protects you from the worst of any weather. Do take care in strong wind as Beech trees are notorious for shedding branches in windy conditions. 


Start of uphill on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Goblin forest and steps on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Multiple stairways on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

You will cross a number of bridges over dry gullies along the track...these are more to even out the track than to protect you from flooded streams. There are occasional views of Mt Rolleston and the Bealey Valley as you walk...they are off in the distance on the other side of the Bealey River. 


Small side stream on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

More stairs to gain altitude...Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Near Pt. 1287 on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

You climb steadily for 20 minutes before descending slightly to cross over a unnamed stream coming down off the side of Mt Cassidy. There is a wooden footbridge over this stream...you might wonder why when you see the flow. When it is raining up here this is a raging beast of a stream so they have built it well above the riverbed so you can easily cross the watercourse. 

First footbridge on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Low flow now but in a storm.....!!!

Bridge crosses an unnamed stream on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Cascades on a side stream, Arthurs Pass Walking Track

I saw a number of people as I was making my way up to Arthurs Pass. There were a lot of people out walking and I was passed by several trail runners as well. Spring is here and the pace always picks up with the start of the new season. 

Trail runner passes me on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

 Periodically the far southern side of the valley becomes visible with nice views of Mt Avalanche, Mt Bealey and Mt Rolleston as you climb towards the pass. 

The ridge between Pt.1658 and Rome Ridge

I stopped at the Bridal Veils Falls lookout on my way up the track. There is a picnic table here with great views up and down the valley. It is an ideal place to stop for a break and it is usually busy with visitors. You should at least stop for the views if nothing else... 


Bridal Veil Falls lookout, Arthurs Pass Walking Track

 From the lookout you can see right up to the top of the Bealey Valley, towards Arthurs Pass and also out to the Bridal Veil Falls (108 meters). Remember 108 meters is roughly 340 feet high so they are not insignificant. The existence of Arthurs Pass National Park was partially about the waterfalls...people would come up to the village just to visit them. 

Bridal Veil Falls (108 meters)

There used to be a rough track up to the Bridal Veil Falls but DOC have removed the markers and the old track is all but invisible in this rapidly growing environment. Your best bet is to view them from a distance at the lookout. 

Picnic table at the Bridal Veil Falls lookout

View west from the Bridal Veil Falls Lookout

Just past the viewing area are a number of staircases which take you down the side of the hill to Bridal Veil Creek. There is a bridge here to take you over the deeply incised creek which is why the track has to lose so much altitude. 


Descending to Bridal Veil Creek, Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Bluffs line the Bridal Veil Creek

The forest around here is open with a lot of ferns, moss and lichen as the constant flow of water down the creek moderates the temperature and keeps everything nice and damp. 


Low flow over the cascade in Bridal Veil Creek

Crossing the Bridal Veil Creek bridge

Past Bridal Veil Creek you have to climb a number of steps to regain all the height you lost getting down to the bridge. There are a number of Neinei Trees along the side of the track these are otherwise known as Pineapple Trees or Dr Seuss Trees.

Climbing up out of Bridal Veil Creek

 Eventually you get to the top of the steps and the flat sidle track starts once again...


Sidling along the side of Mt Cassidy, Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Approximately 5 minutes past the steps you pass under a transmission tower taking high tension power lines down valley. The power lines are the reason for the track...back in the late 1980's the power line company had a cleared corridor down the valley with the lines down the center. People used the corridor as a make shift track up to Jacks Hut. I remember walking up the old route some time in the late 1980's on a school Geography field trip to Arthurs Pass.

Power transmission tower on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Making my way to Jacks hut on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

When they came to make a new millennium track in Arthurs Pass they simply built the track over the unofficial route that already existed. It is great to have a track from the Village to Arthurs Pass as people used to walk along the busy and dangerous highway to get back to the Village. 

There are a few small rises along the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Edge of forest and start of alpine bogs, Arthurs Pass Walking Track

After about 35 minutes of walking you find yourself in an open area of sub alpine bog with the track going over wooden boardwalk for a lot of the way. There are a variety of plants species that like wet soggy ground through here as well as a number of small side streams running across the track. 

Breaking out into the alpine Bogs...Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Goldney Ridge is visible from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

There are great views of both sides of the valley including towards Mt Rolleston, Mt Cassidy, Mt Blimit and Rome and Goldney Ridges. You can see up valley towards Arthurs Pass although it is still out of sight tucked behind a fold in the ground. 

...Arthurs Pass in the distance....

The final five minutes of the track to Jacks Hut are spent in the forest once again as you drop down to the small clearing the hut sits in. 

Arthurs Pass Walking Track...crossing a small side stream

I arrive at Jacks Hut on SH73

The Arthurs Pass Walking Track continues on the far side of SH 73 so I headed across the road and started walking up the last 1.5 kilometers of the track. Take care crossing the road here as there are blind corners in both directions and cars shoot along here at over 100kph. 

The Bealey Valley Track carpark...Arthurs Pass NP

The carpark is the start point for the second part of the Arthurs Pas Walking Track and the side track to the Bealey Chasm and Bealey Valley. The Bealey Valley Track is one of my all time favorites in Arthurs Pass and it drops you at the northern face of Mt Rolleston in a very picturesque river valley. 

Sign at the Bealey Valley Track start

DOC track map at the carpark for the Bealey Valley Track

The track from here to Arthurs Pass is less steep than further down the valley and makes for very pleasant walking...

On the Arthurs Pass Walking Track past SH73

Approaching the junction to the Bealey Chasm Track

About five minutes down the track you will come to a track junction for the Bealey Chasm and Bealey Valley Walking Tracks. To stay on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track go right and keep walking. 

Climbing past the Bealey Valley Track, Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Moss covered boulder along Arthurs Pass Walking Track

There is an excellent view of Mt Rolleston and Goldney Ridge five minutes past the Bealey Chasm junction...it was looking stunning with a patina of snow and those bright blue skies behind it...just lovely!

The north-east face of Mt Rolleston

Plenty of snow still on Mt Rolleston, Arthurs Pass NP


Keep heading uphill for about another 200 meters and you will reach the edge of the bushline and the start of some alpine herb fields. 

edge of the forest along the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

The fields are filled with a variety of sub alpine and alpine shrubs, plants, flowers and grasses. There is a bench right on the edge with fine views of the surrounding area so sit a spell and take it all in...

Bench seat at the start of the alpine fields...Arthurs Pass Walking Track


The rest of the track is on gravel track and board walk over a series of classic alpine bog's. There are a series of excellent interpretive panels along the track explaining the flora and fauna, history and topography of the surrounding area. 


Arthurs Pass Walking Track...one of the information panels

Arthurs Pass Walking Track...alpine herb fields

There is a really nice bridge crossing the Upper Twin Creek at the edge of the sub alpine zone. It is curved and also arched so it looks great when you get a little further up the track. Have a look over the uphill side of the bridge...there are some raw Greenstone boulders in the river the size of refrigerators. 

Arthurs Pass is only 300 meters in the distance

The Maori Iwi in the South Island used to travel to the Otira River and over to the West Coast to find Pounamu which they traded with other tribes across Aotearoa. Greenstone is New Zealand Jade and it is a hard stone which can easily be made into cutting tools, weapons and ornaments so it was very valuable. 

The area around the Otira River Valley has one of the richest Greenstone deposits in New Zealand but removing even a pebble sized piece can see you fined $100 000 or sent to jail for up to ten years as it is on DOC land. 

Leave it where it is folks...

Up stream from the bridge...Arthurs Pass Walking Track


Past the Twin Creek bridge you gradually climb along the side of the valley and just off the road. The gradient is not too bad as you climb to a high point level with the Pass. The track is still to a good quality and there are stairs in the steepest places.


Arthurs Pass Walking Track: bridge over Twin Falls Stream


Downstream from the Upper Twin Creek bridge

You climb up the side of the hills over the last 500 meters to the tarns at Arthurs Pass. You end up about 80 or so meters above the road before dropping back down to the nature walk at the end of the track. 

You can see the cars driving along SH 73 and as you can also see up into Temple Basin between Mt Cassidy and Phipps Peak. There is a private ski field at Temple Basin one of only two in a National Park in this country. 


Temple Basin Carpark at Arthurs Pass

Arthurs Pass Walking Track...variety of species off the track

During the last ice age this valley was home to a massive glacier that was 200 meters higher than the existing pass. It stretched all the way to the Canterbury Plains and as far west as Lake Kaniere. That is nearly 100 km's!!!

The whole of Arthur's Pass National Park has been shaped by ice, wind and water. 

Arthurs Pass Walking Track: information about glacial action

View west from near Arthur Dobson memorial obelisk

Forest edge at end of Arthurs Pass Walking Track

 If you are ever heading for the West Coast stop and have a look at this area...it is fascinating and very beautiful in a stark, rugged kind of way.

The Dobson Memorial at Arthurs Pass

The last section is along the Dobson Nature Walk

Information panel on the Dobson Nature Walk

You will come to a series of glacial erratic's (huge boulders and chunks of rock) dropped as the massive glaciers in this valley melted after the last ice age.


Mt Bealey from the Dobson Nature Walk

Seat next to Dobson Nature Walk in Arthurs Pass NP

 If you look off towards Arthurs Pass you can see the obelisk of the Dobson Memorial on the crest of the pass...this is the actual border between Canterbury and the West Coast. The Arthur Dobson Memorial marks the crest of Arthur's Pass. On the east side is Canterbury, on the west side it is the West Coast. You have just crossed the Southern Alps!


Arthur Dobson Memorial from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Closer view of the Arthur Dobson Memorial at Arthurs Pass

I dropped down to the mostly dry tarns across a flat bog to the south west of the Dobson Memorial. There are a couple of bench seats here as well as some interpretative panels detailing the geology, terrain and flora of this area. 

If you wanted a better view of the Otira Gorge you can follow the Lake Misery Track 20 minutes to a rise which looks down to the Otira Viaduct. Note that the Lake Misery Track is a standard backcountry track so it is rough, muddy and ill maintained compared to the Walking Track. It is being rebuilt at the moment as it was damaged by heavy rain last year. 


Climbing the last rise towards Lake Misery, Arthurs Pass NP

SH73 to the west of Dobson Memorial

Arthur Dudley Dobson was the first European to chart a course from Springfield to the Taramakau River. Of course Maori have used this route for hundreds of years but they preferred to go over Harpers Pass and down the Taramakau River as it was an easier journey. It is a lot flatter and lower over Harpers Pass and there was more food in the thick forest along the route. 


Information panel at Lake Misery Track, Arthurs Pass NP

Dobson was looking for a quicker route to the West Coast to make the passage of gold miners and materials easier. It is a measure of how rough it is when you consider it took Dobson and his Maori guides nearly a week to get from here to the Taramakau River only 25 kilometers to the West! 

View to Bealey Valley from Arthurs Pass

There is no easy way to get over to the Dobson Memorial as there is a stream and alpine bog between the track end and the obelisk. If you not afraid to go off trail there is a visible rock scramble which will take you to the other side of the road. Take care as the rocks are really loose and move around a bit which is why I didn't try it out. 

Phipps Peak from near Dobson Memorial

Start of the Otira River Valley from near Lake Misery

I spent about five minutes around the end of the track and then started back down the track as it was windy and a bit cold near the tarns. 

Mt Cassidy to east of Arthurs Pass

Track to Temple Basin Ski Field

I stopped at this nice seat on the way back to the village and ate my lunch sitting out of the cold wind blowing over the pass. There are a number of benches, seats and sitting areas scattered along the track and I saw people at many of them as I walked. 


Bench along the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Jon's lunch spot along the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

There is a good view up and down the track from the seat I was using and it was warm as it was out of the cold wind blowing over the pass from the West Coast. 

Looking east from my lunch spot...Arthurs Pass Walking Track

View west from lunch stop...Arthurs Pass Walking Track

On the way back you have an excellent view of the track up to Temple Basin ski field. This is a hard day trip with a steep gravel road up to a couple of ski huts at the field. It takes most people 2-3 hours to get up to the ski huts. I walked this track back in the 1990's but a return trip is on my 'to do' list for sometime in the future...

From the huts you can summit Mt Cassidy and make your way back along the top of the ridges. Going past the ski field buildings is for experienced mountaineers only as there are some heinous sections of rotten rock to cross to head east along the tops. 


Temple Basin was directly across the Valley

You can see Twin Creek Falls on the opposite side of SH73...this is 115 meters high and is the third highest waterfall in Arthurs Pass National Park. There is no track to the base but there really should be as they are a direct drop and are probably spectacular up close. 


Twin Falls are on the right of Temple Basin Track

Closer view up to Temple Basin, Arthurs Pass NP

There were 20 odd cars at the Temple Basin carpark...from there you can access both the Arthurs Pass Walking Track and the track up to the ski field.  I spotted a number of people heading down the Temple Basin Track as I was having lunch. They had obviously started early in the morning and were on the downward leg of their trip. 

Carpark for Temple Basin Ski Field

On my way down the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Five minutes had me back over the Twin Creek Stream and back into the forest on my way back to the car.  


Back into the forest on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Nearly at the junction with Bealey Valley Track

Mt Rolleston was looking splendid in the early afternoon sun with snow down to low levels on its flank and the contrasting deep green of the forest canopy below. It is the third highest mountain in the park at 2275 meters and the highest along the route of SH73. 

Last clear view of Mt Rolleston

I arrive at the Bealey Valley side track, Arthurs Pass NP

There is a bench seat just past the turn off to the Bealey Chasm where you can sit and contemplate the surrounding forest. It was built by the trust who raised the money for this millennium project and has a small plaque on it. 

Arthurs Pass Walking Track...seat near Bealey Valley Track

Dedication marker on a seat...Arthurs Pass Walking Track


It was a quick walk back along the track to the carpark opposite Jacks Hut and before I knew it I was ready to cross back over SH73. There were a few people in the Bealey Chasm Track carpark setting out for the Pass...or Bealey Chasm/Bealey Valley Track...


Approaching SH73 on the return leg of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Back at the carpark for the Bealey Valley Track

Jacks Hut sits on the north side of SH73, Arthurs Pass NP

I have talked about Jack's Hut in previous posts but a potted history is that it was built in 1879 as a roadman's hut near Rough Creek and then subsequently moved to this location in the 1910's. The Butler family brought it in the 1920's as a holiday home and bach. It was used in that form both full time and part time for the next 80 odd years. 

The extended Butler family who owned the hut used it right up to the late 1990's when it was transferred to DOC Canterbury so it could be maintained as a historic landmark. It was extensively renovated in 2004 to return it to its original condition..i.e. as you see it now. 

Jacks Hut (1879), Arthurs Pass NP

There are a couple of excellent information panels inside the front room of the hut which give you lots of information about the hut, surrounds and the people who lived here over the years. Another good source of information is the book Jacks Hut by Grace Adams (1968) the daughter of the bach owners...

Information panel in Jacks Hut

Second information panel in Jacks Hut

 I know it is available in public libraries around New Zealand. I have my own copy of this book...I found an excellent second hand copy in a bookshop in Oamaru when Karen and I went there on holiday. 

 Adventure Books specialise in books about the New Zealand outdoors, Antarctica and adventure sports. It is well worth a visit if you are in Oamaru and sits down in the old historic part of the town by the Steam Punk Museum. 


Jacks Hut by Grace Adams (1968)


I stopped at Jacks Hut to have a drink and take some photos of the hut and its surrounds. 


Side view of Jacks Hut in Arthurs Pass NP

Jacks Hut: inside the main room of the hut

Jacks Hut: the old kitchen area of the hut

There is an excellent view of Goldney Ridge and Mt Rolleston from Jacks Hut...I can see why someone would want to use it for a holiday home. 

Goldney Ridge from Jacks Hut

You can just see Mt Rolleston from the hut site


I headed off back down the last part of the track to the bridge over the Bealey River. It takes about 35-45 minutes to arrive back at the carpark. 


The Arthurs Pass Walking Track goes past Jacks Hut

About one hour to Arthurs Pass Village

...initial climb past Jacks Hut...Arthurs Pass Walking Track...

Here is a nice wee stream running along the track just past Jacks Hut...it runs just to the right of the track and you cross it on a small bridge about 50 meters past the hut. This was probably the water source for the hut in days past. 

Side stream near Jacks Hut, Arthurs Pass Walking Track


I made good progress on my way down the valley...it is much easier to walk this way as there is obviously a bit of a gradient to the track. It was hot walking in the open...the sun was fully out so I flipped my collar up to stop sunburn on my neck. 

When I got home I was a bit tender on my face so take heed and cover up...you can get sunburn even in winter & when walking through fairly thick forest cover. 


Arthurs Pass Walking Track...boardwalk over alpine bog

SH73 seen from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Avalanche Peak is off to the right...Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Here is a view of Arthurs Pass from along the Walking Track. The flat part of the pass is only about 200 meters wide in between Goldney Ridge and Phipps Peak. 

View back to Arthurs Pass from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Rome and Goldney Ridges mark the Otira River Valley

Rock garden along the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Back under the transmission lines on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

There are a number of small side streams crossing the track right along its length...this is one up above Bridal Veil Creek. 


Picturesque side stream on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

...several small streams cross the Arthurs Pass Walking Track...

I eventually made it back to the stairs down to Bridal Veil Creek and headed down towards the creek. I spotted the only orange triangle I saw on this whole track on the way down. It was nice and cool walking in the thick shade of the ravine. 

Start of descent down to Bridal Veil Creek...Arthurs Pass Walking Track

...over 100 steps down to Bridal Veil Creek...

...Crossing Bridal Veil Creek...

Bridal Veil Creek is a nice spot to rest for awhile. It is possible to get down to the side of the creek from the bridge and there is a lovely set of cascades in the river bed. Stay clear of the nearby bluffs as rocks do occasionally break off from time to time.

Low flow levels in Bridal Veil Creek

The footbridge over Bridal Veil Creek, Arthurs Pass NP

Then it was up the stairs to the lookout point above Bridal Veil Creek. I counted 122 steps on the way back up to the top of the ravine...

 You would think steps or stairs would be nicer to walk on but actually they are a total pain in the behind...they make the track steeper and the size and length of them is not well suited to people with shorter legs. They do stop erosion though so they are a necessary evil if you will...

Starting the climb out of Bridal Veil Creek


Here is the view down to Arthurs Pass Village from the lookout point above Bridal Veils Falls. There is also a good view along the mountains on this side of the Valley including Mt Cassidy and Mt Blimit. 


Distant Arthurs Pass Village from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Mt Cassidy from the lookout point near Bridal Veil Creek

Bridal Veil Waterfall and Mt Temple...Arthurs Pass NP

Goldney Ridge from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Mt Avalanche from the lookout point near Bridal Veil Creek

I continued on our way back down the track passing several groups heading up the track...you could probably walk this track at night provided you had a decent head torch. I might do that sometime maybe when it is getting darker earlier in the night in autumn...


Be-hatted Jon the way back to the carpark

Night tramping is fun but it just doesn't make for a very good blog post because you cannot see anything. You have to keep your wits about you, have a good primary light source and a good secondary light source in case the first one stops working. 


Last bridge on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

 I passed a number of  Dracophyllum Traversii on the way, these are sometimes called "Dr Seuss" trees as they look exactly like the ones in The Lorax. We really have some weird and wonderful plants in New Zealand. 

Dracophyllum tree along the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

I was soon beginning the descent down to the flat land near the Bealey River bridge and the end of my walk for that day. 

Arthurs Pass Walking Track...descending the last hill

On the descent down to the Bealey River Flats

 It was excellent weather for a walk, dry but not too hot. Even though this is a popular track I only saw a dozen other people on the track. It was surprising but Spring has only just started so possibly there aren't many tourists around yet.

Back on flat ground on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

End of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track at Bealey River

Bealey River Bridge is directly ahead

I soon found myself back down at the bridge over the Bealey River...I think I shaved about 15 minutes off the time it took me to get up to the top of the pass which I put down to walking downhill on the way back. It was nice to be back on the flat and only a couple of hundred meters away from the car.

Crossing the Bealey River Bridge

I think this distant view of Punchbowl Falls is one of the iconic images of the outdoors in New Zealand... definitely of Arthurs Pass National Park. It is really dramatic with the green of the Beech forest, the bluffs to each side, the white spume of the waterfall and the snow capped mountain tops behind. 


Punchbowl Falls from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

Closer view of Punchbowl Falls from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

From the Bealey River bridge it is only about 400 meters back to the carpark across an area of flat gravel. You have almost finished your walk for the day...

Flat gravel near the Arthurs Pass Walking Track carpark

..."The Tramper" by olde Sol and Jon...

The photo below shows the flank of Mt Avalanche as well as the buildings of Arthurs Pass township in the near distance. 

End of Arthurs Pass Walking Track comes into sight

View up valley from end of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

The Arthurs Pass Walking Tracks is one of the nicest day walks in the park and offers a relatively easy 2-3 hour option which takes in a variety of terrain and types of forest. This is probably best tramped if you are staying in Arthurs Pass Village overnight or are visiting just to do a day walk. 

Carpark at the end of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track

If you are on your way over Arthurs Pass you might be better to only walk to Jacks Hut (1.5 hours return) or try a shorter track like the Punchbowl Falls, Heritage Walk or Bealey Chasm Track. All of these tracks are under 2 hours return. The Cockayne Nature Walk at Kelly's Creek just  past Otira is also an option at around 1 hour return. 


Access: The track starts at the car park for the Punchbowl Falls, this is at the western end of Arthur's Pass township, look for the sign on the Bealey River side of SH73.
Track times: 1.5-2 hours to Dobson Memorial on Arthur's Pass, 3-4 hours for a return trip. It is 45 minutes to Jacks Hut from the start of the track if that suits your needs better. 
Miscellaneous: All weather track, all streams bridged, some uphill/descent in the mid section of the track. Take water as all side streams along this track are contaminated. Watch for traffic on SH73 as you cross at Jacks Hut as this is a 100kph zone. You are exposed to the weather from just past the turn off to Bealey Chasm so bring a sunhat, sunscreen and warm clothing. 
YouTube: