Bealey Valley Track: 28th April 2019

A damp stroll along the Bealey Valley track...

My partner Karen and I went up to Arthur's Pass for a couple of days in late April. We were hoping for some nice weather so we could do a couple of walks but unfortunately a front moved onto the South Island bringing rain with it. We still went and mostly sat in the bar at the Bealey Hotel with a drink in hand as we watched the rain outside. 

Bealey Hotel: accommodation block overlooking Bealey river bed

Bealey hotel: interior of one of the rooms at the hotel

We did get out for one walk, we went for a stroll up the Bealey Valley to the edge of the first clearing and then turned back to the car as it started raining cats and dogs...

DOC track sign at the beginning of the Bealey Valley Track

The Bealey River from the bridge over the Bealey Chasm

A walk in the rain, Bealey Valley style...

It was basically pouring with rain for most of the two days we spent in Arthur's Pass but taking advantage of a short break in the weather we drove up to the Bealey Valley Track and went for a walk over the river and up to the edge of the first clearing. 

Start of the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass NP

Map: Upper Bealey Valley and surrounding area

We would have gone further but that is where the weather packed a sad and started snowing, sleeting and raining. We turned around and walked back to the car as it was really kind of miserable.

No dogs allowed in the Bealey Valley....it is a Kiwi Zone

As you can see the track and forest were wet but not yet flooded as it would have been later in the day after another biblical deluge. The short tracks in the park receive a lot of work so they are smooth, flat and have a nice gradient to them. 

Walking along the first flat section, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

There are a number of steps and stair sections so this track is not suitable for wheelchairs and/or baby strollers, mobility scooters etc. 

Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass: the first set of stairs

Karen on the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

After about 150 meters there is a track junction....if you continue straight on you will eventually arrive at the Arthur Dobson Memorial on the top of Arthur's Pass. The memorial is really for Edward Dobson and his two sons Arthur and George who all played a part in the rediscovery of the Pass.

The Dobson Memorial cairn at the apex of Arthurs Pass

The track to the Bealey Valley descends to the left down a series of stairs and eventually arrives at the bridge over the Bealey chasm. 

Near the track junction on the Bealy Valley, Arthur's Pass

The Bealey Chasm is a point where the river disappears under a series of massive boulders, it then reappears a bit further down the river bed. When I was younger there was no bridge at this point so if you wanted to get to the Upper Bealey Valley you had to cross the river. Thankfully DOC have built a rather lovely bridge across the river so it is now an all weather track. 

Karen crossing the bridge at the Bealey Chasm, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

View up the Upper Bealey River from the bridge at the Bealey chasm

View down the Bealey River from the bridge at the Bealey Chasm

On the far side of the river is a short climb to a large swampy clearing with excellent views of the Bealey Valley, Mt Rolleston, Gouldney Ridge and Rome Ridge. Again, when I was younger there was a shallow tarn in the clearing but this seems to have filled itself in over the years.

Start of the climb past the Bealey Chasm bridge, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Karen walking up the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Moss and orange track markers...Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass: about to enter the first clearing

View towards Avalanche Peak from the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Looking west towards Otira from the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

On the far side of the first clearing, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Looking towards Temple Valley Skiffed, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

We walked over to the western edge of the clearing as we intended to keep going along the track. At this point the clouds once again descended and it started to rain, sleet and snow so we turned about and headed back towards the car park. 

If you continue along the path you will eventually reach the Bealey River again about two kilometres from the base of the Goldney Glacier. There are excellent views of he surrounding mountains from here and in summer you can follow the rough track up the true right of the river to the basin at the head of this valley.

The view from the end of the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Just be aware that this is a avalanche risk area with avalanche paths coming off all the high ground around the Bealey River. Do not go past the sign at the end of the track in Winter or Spring without first checking the avalanche risk. 

Avalanche warning by the end of the Bealey Valley Track

You just follow the same track back to the car park....down past the Bealey foot bridge, up the slope to the track and along the flats to the end of the track. For more information see my trip to the Bealey Valley back in 2018.

Bealey Chasm footbridge, Arthur's Pass

Boardwalk and stairs leading to the Bealey Chasm, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Climbing back to the Arthur's Pass Walking Track

Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass: the only long distance view of Bealey Valley

If you are in the area and still feeling energetic you can follow the Arthur's Pass walking Track for about two kilometers to the top of the pass to the West Coast. There is a memorial cairn to Arthur Dobson there and a very nice track around some alpine bogs and tarns that are worth a look. 

Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass: at the junction with the Arthur's Pass Walking Track

Heading back to the car park, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Typical old growth Beech forest, Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

Every time I walk past these glacial erratic rocks I wonder how many thousands of children must have climbed over them.......they look like they have rested here forever. the edges are all worn smooth from people's feet and hands.

A pile of glacial erratics alongside the Bealey Valley Track, Arthur's Pass

All up our trip took about 40 minutes return, add another hour onto that if you walk to the end of the track at the Bealey River Valley. It is a nice wee track, easy to walk, well marked and easily one of the nicest short walks in Arthur's Pass National Park.

Go have a look for yourself....

Jacks Hut, Arthur's Pass

I have visited Jacks Hut many times over the years as it sits on the direct path of a number of good walking tracks in the area. Originally a road-mans hut, it was moved to this location in the early 1910's and used as a holiday bach by the Butler family for many years. This was Karen's first visit to the hut so we had a bit of a look around. 

Jacks Hut in the 1920's when still a road mans hut

Sometime in the 1980's it was donated to the Department of Conservation and is maintained by them as a fine example of a historic private bach on national park land.

Jacks Hut: a view of the front of the hut

It is a very tidy three room house...the back room had a series of bunks while the other two rooms had a lounge area and kitchen/boot room. It is not available for use by the public anymore but is well worth a look for the simple type of construction used in this type of building.

There are some interpretive panels inside Jacks Hut

Jacks Hut...the rear of the hut, one of the rooms

A lot of colonial homes were clad with corrugated iron sheets, they were relatively light to ship, easy to cut and were very water proof. Houses, churches, shops and back-country huts were made using this material although few of them remain now. 

Detail of one of the sides of corrugated iron clad Jacks Hut

Jacks Hut sign at the front of the building

Jacks Hut lies on the path of the Arthur's Pass Walking Track from the village to the top of the pass. If you ever visit Arthur's Pass make sure you stop and have a look at this curiosity of our colonial past. The car park for the Bealey Valley track starts immediately opposite Jacks Hut. 

The car park for the Bealey Valley and Arthur's Pass Walking Track

SH73 looking towards Arthur's Pass Village

Here is a curiosity of history, this is one of the old mile markers that denoted the distances on the route between Springfield and Otira on the West Coast. They are now over 100 years old and it is amazing that any of them still exist. You will find these scattered up and down SH73 which more or less corresponds to the route of the old stage coach line. 

One of the mile markers from the old coach route to Otira and the West Coast

If you are ever driving between Christchurch and Hokitika/Greymouth look for these mile markers alongside the road. 

Access: Turn off SH 73 at the car-park opposite Jacks Hut, the track starts next to the car-park. The first 200 meters are on the Arthur's Pass Walking Track, then turn off onto the Bealey Valley Track

Track times: 30-40 minutes to the Upper Bealey River, then 30 minutes to the cirque under Goldney Ridge.

Hut Details: Jacks Hut (historic)

Miscellaneous: Avalanche and rock fall danger in the Upper Bealey Valley, do not go past the end of the track unless you have some avalanche awareness. No toilets at any point along this track.

Tramping in Arthurs Pass brochure

The Department of Conservation have a very informative brochure about tramping in Arthur's Pass, it is titled Tramping in Arthur's Pass. The following information is taken straight from the DOC website but I have included it here as it is highly relevant to anyone planning a trip to Arthur's Pass National Park:

DOC brochure: Tramping in Arthur's Pass NP

Tramping in Arthur's Pass

Arthur’s Pass National Park is rugged and mountainous; its back country tracks and facilities are not as developed as most other national parks in New Zealand. There are limited options for people with little or no tramping experience as most trips require route-finding and river-crossing skills.

Tramping in Arthur's Pass brochure (PDF, 1,669K) (opens in new window) 

Trips for trampers with moderate experience

• 3–6 hours each day
• Suitable for people with low–moderate tramping experience
• Basic route-finding skills needed
• Some tramps require river-crossing

Route	Above bushline	River crossing	Route finding	Avalanche risk
Carrington Hut	No	Yes	Yes	No
Cass-Lagoon Saddle Track	No	Yes - side streams	No	Yes
Hawdon Hut	No	Yes	Yes	No
Casey Saddle - Binser Saddle Route	No	Yes	Yes	No
Edwards Hut	No	Yes	Yes	No
Carroll Hut	Yes	No	No	Yes

Trips for trampers with moderate-high experience

• 5–8 hours each day
• Suitable for well-equipped people with previous back country experience
• Map-reading and route-finding skills essential
• River crossing skills essential

Route	Above bushline	River crossing	Route finding	Avalanche risk
Avalanche Peak Route	Yes	No	Yes	Yes
Avalanche Peak to Crow Hut Route	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Harper Pass Route	Yes	Yes	Yes	No
Mingha-Deception Route	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes

Trips for highly experienced trampers only

• 7–10 hours each day
• Suitable for well-equipped and experienced back country trampers only
• Often difficult country – may involve rock scrambling
• Many unmarked routes – map-reading and route-finding skills essential
• River-crossing skills essential

Route	Above the bush line	River crossing	Route finding	Avalanche risk
Three Passes Route	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Edwards-Hawdon Route	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Harman Pass Route	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Minchin Pass Route	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Edwards-Otehake Route	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes

Be aware of these factors

Weather in Arthur’s Pass National Park changes quickly

Sharp falls in temperature, heavy rain, and strong winds can occur any time of the year. Always be prepared to change your plans. In bad weather you risk exposure if above the bush line, and drowning if crossing flooded rivers.

Remember

• Get the latest weather forecast from the Arthur’s Pass Visitor Centre before setting out.
• Be prepared for the worst.
• Carry warm clothing and waterproofs.
• Do not go above the bush line in bad weather.
• Rivers rise very quickly during rain – even if it’s far away in the headwaters.

You must know where and how to cross rivers safely

Unlike the Great Walks and other easy tramps in New Zealand, many tracks and routes in Arthur’s Pass do not have bridges.

Rivers and major side streams rise rapidly after rain. Several trampers have drowned crossing swollen rivers.

Rivers and side streams tend to be higher in spring when snow is melting.

Remember

• Read the route guide and map carefully to see where the major crossings are. Before crossing assess the river’s speed, depth, colour, catchment area and run-out. Consider escape routes along your route.
• Know how to choose the best crossing places: don’t cross discoloured rivers, surging water, or major rapids; watch out for sounds of rolling stones in the riverbed, or trees and debris being carried along.
• Do not take risks. If a river is flooded, wait it out – better late than dead!

You need route-finding skills

Many of the routes in Arthur’s Pass require some route-finding skills. Tracks and routes are not always continuously marked – especially in wide riverbeds and above the bush line, where the landscape changes rapidly due to slips and floods. You will need to find the safest route.

Remember

• Always take a topographic map and compass with you.
• Do not rely on GPS – it will not work in the thick bush or confined spaces.
• If visibility is poor, do not go above the bush line unless you have good navigation skills.
• Write your tramping intentions in hut books as you pass through.
• If you are lost or injured: Stay where you are. Find or construct a shelter if possible. Leave signs of your presence and conserve energy.

Avalanches are a seasonal risk on many tracks

Some high-level tracks and routes in Arthur’s Pass are exposed to avalanches in winter and spring. Some passes have year-round snow and ice.

Know how to stay safe from avalanches

O'Malleys Track to Turkey Flat and places west...

A safer way to access the Upper Waimakiriri River Valley...

I thought I would take a look at O'Malleys Track, this is a high water flood track from near the Bealey Bridge to Turkey Flats in the mid Waimakiriri River area. The Waimakiriri River Valley has a multitude of good tramping and was the original home territory of the tramping and climbing clubs based in Christchurch. 

Bealey Bridge from SH73 on the edge of Arthur's Pass National Park

O'Malleys Track is not that long...3 odd kilometers but it does provide a safer way to access the Waimakiriri River Valley when a crossing of the main river is impossible.

The Upper Waimakiriri River.....

A word of caution though...many of the side streams that feed into the Waimakiriri River have huge catchments. If there is any significant amount of rain you will not be able to get further than the Anti Crow River as none of the side streams are bridged. 

The Anti-Crow River...cannot be crossed in moderate to heavy rain!!!

Other rivers you need to cross in this valley are the Greenlaw and Harper Creeks and there is a mandatory crossing of a braid of the Waimakiriri a kilometer past the Anti Crow River. All will be impassible in heavy rain.

Walking O'Malleys Track

O'Malleys Track starts from a car-park right next to the eastern end of Bealey Bridge on the edge of Arthur's Pass National Park. Look for the DOC sign visible from the road right next to the bridge, the car-park can be a bit difficult to access if coming from Arthur's Pass township. 

Map: O'Malleys Track, Arthur's Pass National Park

O'Malleys Track is a DOC maintained flood track for use when it is impossible to cross the main braid of the Waimakiriri River.

The main crossing point of the Waimakiriri River at Klondyke Corner

The track climbs and then sidles along the flank of Bealey Spur before dropping back down to Turkey Flat at its far end. There is a picnic table and a set of toilets at the car-park so make use of them if required as there are no facilities along the track. Also make sure you have water as there are no potable water sources along the track.

The car-park at the start of O'Malleys Track, near Bealey Bridge

Start of O'Malleys Track at the Bealey Bridge car-park

The quality of your experience will depend on when DOC last cleared the track. A DOC work crew normally run down the track at the end of winter and clear any dead-fall trees and larger debris. Generally the track is clear and easy to walk. 

On O'Malleys Track:climbing the initial slope on the side of Bealey Spur

A view of Klondyke Corner from on O'Malleys Track

Track quality is about usual for Arthur's Pass...fare to middling!!! They have a minimal impact regime here so the tracks tend to be a bit rougher than other National Parks. There are also a lot less bridges in this area...DOC Arthurs Pass only bridge the deepest and most dangerous of the rivers. 

On O'Malleys Track: various track types....through beech forest

...climbing through regenerating Pole Beech, O'Malleys Track

...and open areas of bush and scrub on O'Malleys Track:

When you get about two kilometers along the track you can see over the valley to the the car park and campsite at Klondyke Corner. This is the place most people cross the main braid of the Waimakiriri River as the river is wider and hence more shallow at that point.

View of the Waimakiriri River Valley from the Klondyke Corner car park

View to the Klondyke Corner car-park...there is a campsite near there

You can also see the extensive swamp areas that border the bottom edge of Bealey Spur..there are a number of smaller braids of the river along this side of the valley feeding into swampland. 

Swampy areas border the edge of Bealey Spur from O'Malleys Track:

There is one potentially problematic stream to cross about halfway along the track. This side stream comes down from the tarns on the top of Bealey Spur and normally runs very low. I did notice that there was flood debris around the trees on both banks approximately a meter higher than the stream bed. This leads me to believe that this stream could be at least a meter high in heavy rainfall and therefore dangerous. 

If you arrive here to find it running high turn around and go back...

Potentially dangerous side stream about halfway along O'Malleys Track:

As you approach the end of the track the trees start to thin out so you see down to the river and out onto Turkey Flat. When you reach these lookouts you are about 20-30 minutes from the end of the track.

View of the Waimakiriri River through silver beech, O'Malleys Track:

A braid of the Waimakiriri River from O'Malleys Track, Arthur's Pass NP

Descending down to Turkey Flat at the western end of O'Malleys Track:

Finally after about two hours the track will deposit you onto Turkey Flat....from here it is simply a matter of following the very easy track across the grasslands to whatever destination you are visiting. 

View of the Waimakiriri River Valley from near the end of  O'Malleys Track

View of the Mt Bealey Massif from on O'Malleys Track

On O'Malleys Track: the end of the track at Turkey Flats

To return to SH 73 simply backtrack and follow the same track back to the car park. 

Where to from here?

There are a number of different places you can access from the edge of Turkey Flat at the end of O'Malleys Track. Again most of these locations can only be accessed if the rivers are low so do not come venturing up here if it has been or is raining.

Almost at Turkey Flat with a view of the Waimakiriri River Valley

The first destination is Jordan Stream the first major river you strike, it runs down the middle of Turkey Flat and empties into the Waimakiriri River near Klondyke corner. If you head up Jordan Stream there is a route over Jordan Saddle into the Avoca River catchment. There are many huts in this catchment and great opportunities for hunting and remote tramping. 

Jordan Stream and the route to Jordan Saddle and hence to the Avoca Valley

You can continue off the end of O'Malleys Track and cross the Turkey Flat grasslands. This is an enormous river fan draining Jordan Stream and is approximately five kilometers from one side to the other.The track skirts along the bush edge on the western end of the flats to eventually emerge next to Anti Crow Hut. 

Crossing the grasslands of Turkey Flat, Arthur's Pass National Park

Anti Crow Hut is a destination as well as a way point. It is a nicely maintained NZFS six bunk hut but most people will not stay as it is simply a point they pass on their way to the Upper Waimakiriri Valley. 

It is a great pity more people do not stay here as it is one of the few largely unchanged 'six bunkers' left in Arthur's Pass NP. It has some gorgeous views out to the Crow Valley, the Waimakiriri River, Klondyke Corner and the mountains of the Bealey Massif. 

Anti Crow Hut.....classic NZFS 6 bunk hut

The Upper Waimakiriri River Valley is very beautiful with the aqua blue of the river, deep green bush and grey of the riverbed and mountains intermingling. Great views of the surrounding mountain peaks some of which are +2000 meters high. In the summer there are plenty of awesome camping spots on the river flats but don't camp on the islands or you may awake to find yourself marooned. 

The beautiful Upper Waimakiriri Valley 

Another location you can visit in the upper Waimakiriri Valley is Carrington Hut on the confluence of the Waimakiriri and White Rivers. It was built in the late 1970's when this area was the focus of tramping in the park. From here you can access the Harmon Pass Route to the Taipo River Valley, Three Passes Route, Waimakiriri Falls Track, Waimakiriri Col Route and Barker Hut. 

The hut is well used but the two times I have been here it was only 1/3 to 1/2 full because it is so large. 

Carrington Hut....36 bunks, two dining areas, beautiful location

So that is O'Malleys Track and the places you can visit by using the track, good tramping everyone!!!