From Arthur's Pass township to Arthur's Pass...
I
went for a tramp on Saturday 24th October 2015, it was the first day of the Labour Weekend break. This was just a
day trip as I had plans to watch the Rugby World Cup Final (All Blacks vs South
Africa) game on Sunday morning.
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Punchbowl Falls from the Arthur's Pass Walking Track car park |
My original plan
was for a trip up to Carrol Hut near Otira, but when I arrived at the
car park at the base of the track I was meet with the still smouldering
wreck of a car that had been set on fire. After reporting it to the
Police, I decided that maybe this was not such an awesome place to park
my car for 5-6 hours.
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Map of the defunct trip to Carroll Hut in Arthur's Pass National Park |
Instead
I went back to Arthur's Pass and walked the new track from the Devils
Punchbowl Falls car park to the pass over looking the Otira Gorge. I've been wanting to do it for a
while and this was the perfect opportunity.
Arthur's Pass Walking Track, 10kms, 2-3 hours return
The Arthur's Pass Walking Track
follows the path taken by Arthur Dobson an early surveyor and the first
European to cross the Pass between the Bealey and Otira rivers back in
the 1880's.
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Car park at the start of the Arthurs Pass Walking Track |
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Map: Arthurs Pass Walking Track, Arthur's Pass National Park |
There
are a series of information panels near the car park laying out the
various tracks at this end of the valley. This is the starting point for
tracks to Punchbowl Falls, Arthur's Pass, Avalanche Peak, Cons
Track and Mt Aicken.
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Arthurs Pass Walking Track: information board at car park |
As
you can see nice clear details and the required warning information for
tourists, it is a busy spot. Thousands if not tens of thousands of
people must walk up to Punchbowl Falls each year while travelling
through Arthur's Pass.
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Arthur's Pass Walking Track: details of the board |
The start of the track is very clear, nice signage throughout its length.
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Track junction for Punchbowl Falls and Arthur's Pass Walking Track |
The track quality is excellent, Great Walk standard really, and it stays
at this level all the way to the pass. It certainly makes the track a
lot easier to walk, years ago the previous rough basic track took
about 2.5 hours to the pass, it is now an hour and a half.
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Walkin' Great Walk styles....on the Arthur's Pass Walking Track |
There are plenty of stairs and board walks along the trail here is a shot of the first of many for the day....
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Arthur's Pass Walking Track: First of MANY steps! |
The
bush to each side of the track is very dense, Arthur's Pass gets a lot
of rain, over 2 meters most years and it actually holds the NZ record
for the highest amount of rain in a 24 hour period (it was 2.4 meters,
that's 39 inches or 7.8 feet) back in the 1960's.
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Dense bush to side of Arthur's Pass Walking Track |
There
are a series of well constructed bridges along the track, they remind
me a lot of the ones I've encountered on the Wharfedale and St James
tracks in the past. Standard DOC bridge design? Bridge, pedestrians, Mark I.....
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Arthur's Pass Walking Track: example of the bridges en route |
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Jon on one of the bridges, Arthur's Pass Walking Track |
Periodically
the far southern side of the valley becomes visible, nice views of Mt
Avalanche, Mt Bealey and Mt Rolleston as you climb towards the pass.
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Mt Rolleston and Mt Bealey from Arthur's Pass Walking Track |
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Waterfall on the south side of the Bealey Valley |
The
photo below shows the flank of Mt Avalanche as well as the distant and
tiny looking buildings of Arthurs Pass township far below. This is a
view from a scenic lookout about 30 minutes up the trail, it has a seat
and picnic table.
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Flanks of Mt Avalanche from Arthur's Pass Walking Track |
You pass many small side streams on this track, all of them are bridged making this is an all weather track.
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Arthur's Pass Walking Track: nice looking side stream |
I passed a number of Dracophyllum
traversii on the way, these are sometimes called "Dr Seuss" trees as
they look exactly like the ones in The Lorax. We really have some weird
and wonderful plants in New Zealand.
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Dracophyllum traversii tree near Arthur's Pass |
The
track follows the route of a high tension power line for most of the
way up the valley. The last time I walked this track back in the early
90's it was a rocky and wet experience as no formal track existed. The
track was the cut back route of the power line. You still pass under the
pylons every now and then on the new track.
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Track passing under the power pylons |
At
one point you need to descend and then ascend a series of steps to get
around a small gorge, the track has been well routed using a couple of
handy gully's either side of the stream crossing.
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Arthurs Pass Walking Track : a stairway to heaven.....? |
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"Goblin" forest on the Arthurs Pass Walking Track |
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View north west towards Mt Rolleston, Bealey Valley |
Eventually
you reach Jacks Hut, former home of a well known road man of the early
1900's. Up till the 1980's it was a private bach or holiday home. It
must have been some experience living here full time over the winter as
the road sometimes gets up to 3 meters of snow in a big storm.
Cool to say the least....!
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Historic Jacks Hut, SH 73 near Arthur's Pass |
Near
Jacks Hut the track crosses State Highway SH73, to the south side of
the valley and continues up to the Pass. Take care crossing the road as
it is very busy and has blind corners in both directions.
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Arthur's Pass Walking Track: there be the track......! |
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The turn off to the Bealey Chasm & Bealey Valley on the Arthur's Pass Walking Track |
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Arthur's Pass Walking Track, approaching the tarns on the pass |
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Mt Rolleston and Bealey Valley from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track |
You
eventually breakout of the bush after 15minutes past Jacks Hut, the
rest of the track is on board walk over a series of classic alpine
bog's. There are stunning views in all directions.
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Start of the alpine bog-lands looking down valley, Arthur's Pass |
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Arthur's Pass Walking Track : alpine bog-lands looking up valley |
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Arthur's Pass - Highway 73 looking east or down valley, Arthur's Pass National Park |
There
are a series of excellent interpretive panels along the track
explaining the flora and fauna, history and topography of the
surrounding area.
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Interpretive panel- Alpine plants near Arthur's Pass Tarns |
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No name falls near Temple Basin ski field from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track |
During
the last ice age this valley was home to a massive glacier that was 200
meters higher than the existing pass. It stretched all the way to the
Canterbury Plains and as far west as Lake Kaniere. That is nearly 100
km's!!!
The whole of Arthur's Pass National Park has been shaped by ice, wind and water.
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Glacial moraine field near Arthur's Pass |
As
you can see I have my fleece on, even with the sun it was cold due to
the wind from the Otira Valley. I could see steam from my breath as I
was walking, too windy for a hat so I got a bit wind burnt on the face.
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Jon standing on Arthur's Pass |
Below
is a selection of photos taken as I walked around the short nature walk
at the Pass. If you are ever heading for the West Coast stop and have a
look, it is fascinating and very beautiful in a stark, rugged kind of
way.
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Series of tarns on Arthurs Pass, Arthur's Pass National Park |
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Looking East towards Otira Valley, Arthur's Pass National Park |
Below
is a classic kiwi tramping track leading off from the nature walk, this
heads to the Otira Valley. This is more like the mess of rock, mud and
roots we have come to expect and love on a DOC track.
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A more basic DOC track heading to Otira Valley |
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One of the small tarns on Arthurs Pass, Arthur's Pass National Park |
The
Arthur Dobson Memorial marks the crest of Arthur's Pass. On the east
side is Canterbury, on the west side it is the West Coast. You have just
crossed the Southern Alps!
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Arthur Dobson Memorial from the Arthurs Pass Walking Track |
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Arthurs Pass: one of the interpretive panels- glacial action, Arthur's Pass National Park |
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View west towards the West Coast from Arthur's Pass tarns |
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One of the many bridges on the Arthur's Pass Walking Track, Arthur's Pass National Park |
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View towards Mt Bealey from alpine bog lands, Arthur's Pass National Park |
After 20 minutes walking around the nature walk at the tarns I headed back down towards the village.
Below
is a view of Jacks Hut from the opposite (southern) side of SH73. There
are tracks from this point to the "Chasm" (a point where the Bealey
River goes underground) and the Bealey Valley Track both of which are
worth a look.
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Jacks Hut from far side of SH73, Arthur's Pass |
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Arthur's Pass Walking Track : one of the picturesque side streams |
I
stopped about half way back to the village and sat on a log for a break
for 5 minutes listening to the forest, river gurgle and birdsong.
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Stopped for a snack on the Arthur's Pass Walking Track |
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Arthur's Pass Walking Track : new stairs to climb and descend a gully |
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Young Dracophyllum traversii alpine tree |
The
scene below will be familiar to anyone who has visited Arthur's Pass,
these are the Punchbowl Falls close to the village. They are 112 metres
high and come from an ice field on the saddle between Mt Cassidy and Mt
Aicken.
I am told that DOC have up graded the track to
the falls and they now a wonder of board walk and platforms, I will
have to visit sometime to confirm this.
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Punchbowl Falls from near the Arthur's Pass Walking Track car park |
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Close-up of Punchbowl Falls from the car park, Arthur's Pass National Park |
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View up Bealey Valley towards Arthur's Pass, Arthur's Pass National Park |
It
was a good days tramping and while not the trip I had planned it still
worked out very nicely. It was excellent weather for a walk, dry but not
too hot.
Even though this is a popular track I only saw four other
people on the track. It was surprising but Spring has only just started
so possibly there aren't many tourists around yet.
Access: The
track starts at the car park for the Punchbowl Falls, this is at the
western end of Arthur's Pass township, look for the sign on the Bealey
River side of SH73.
Track times: 1.5-2 hours to Arthur's Pass, same return.
Miscellaneous: All
weather track, all streams bridged. Take water as all side streams
along this track are contaminated. Watch for traffic on SH73 as you
cross at Jacks Hut.